Water Softener Sizing

[Do It Myself]

I have done a bunch of reading on this forum but I am wondering if my house size and having forced hot water heating impacts the size system I need.

My wife had Culligan over the other day to diagnose our water softener. The head would get stuck during cycles and it's 25 years old. He said it wasn't worth rebuilding or replacing the head as the media needs replacing also. $850 to replace media. He put the tank on bypass as the media was making our water worse.

House is:
-5600 sq. feet
-forced hot water with on demand hot water furnace
-2 full baths
-2 people
-1 inch pipe
-washer, dishwasher, 5 sinks
-hardness <4
-sinks, tubs, toilets and close turn yellow quickly

I'm thinking the Fleck 7000SXT with 48k grain but the 5600SXT may be ok also.

I have attached a photo of what I currently have. The previous owner said he installed a two phase tank because it was on sale and cheaper than a single chamber tank. I'm looking for a single take and Culligan man recommended the same. I haven't received written quote from Culligan yet and I can't remember which size Culligan he recommended but it was $2,100 installed. He did do a bunch of tests including gph.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Reach4]

I have done a bunch of reading on this forum but I am wondering if my house size and having forced hot water heating impacts the size system I need.

No effect.

My wife had Culligan over the other day to diagnose our water softener. The head would get stuck during cycles and it's 25 years old. He said it wasn't worth rebuilding or replacing the head as the media needs replacing also. $850 to replace media. He put the tank on bypass as the media was making our water worse.

House is:
-5600 sq. feet
-forced hot water with on demand hot water furnace
-2 full baths
-2 people
-1 inch pipe
-washer, dishwasher, 5 sinks
-hardness <4
-sinks, tubs, toilets and close turn yellow quickly

You have significant iron.

You need a lab water test for you raw water... the water before the treatment. Wait. I see you had a water test. You have 6.4 ph water. Your well needs sanitizing. Your pipes before pH treatment should probably be plastic rather than copper. Post all of the test infp.

Your existing system has two kinds of media. The softener might not even need new resin, but the resin certainly needs cleaning. One tank may be calcite that was long ago exhausted, or iron media that needs replacing. [comment removed because it was based on data from a previous house]

New system makes sense. Your old system has a timed system rather than a system that recharges based on usage.

I'm thinking the Fleck 7000SXT with 48k grain but the 5600SXT may be ok also.

7000SXT has been end-of-lifed, replaced by the 5800SXT, 5810SXT, and some more. 5600SXT is still popular.

Note that your existing Autotrol valve has the input and output opposite that of the Fleck valves.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

Your old Autotrol was a workhorse for many decades. It was a great valve and is still available to this day. You have an A-155 version with timeclock. Almost all new units are metered now.

Have you had a complete lab report done on your water yet? If not, please do so.

http://watercheck.myshopify.com?aff=5

NTL Labs linked above does a great job most of the time. Reasonable price and easy to read water reports.

 

[Do It Myself]

Your old Autotrol was a workhorse for many decades. It was a great valve and is still available to this day. You have an A-155 version with timeclock. Almost all new units are metered now.

I have had a recent test completed. The results are below.


Have you had a complete lab report done on your water yet? If not, please do so.

http://watercheck.myshopify.com?aff=5

NTL Labs linked above does a great job most of the time. Reasonable price and easy to read water reports.

 

[Reach4]

That is way different than what you said on this post: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....nd-pressure-tank-selection.66494/#post-494302

I did have water tested last week by a local lab. My PH was 6.4, I have coliform, lead, and lots of copper.
​

Have you moved on, having divested the 2016 house?

 

[Do It Myself]

Yes. This a new house and this test is from 2 months ago.

 

[Reach4]

Yes. This a new house and this test is from 2 months ago.

You were supposed to draw the sample from before the water treatment. If that is indeed your raw water, I don't see why water treatment would be needed.

Do you show iron staining other than a bit in the toilet tanks?

You might need a radon fan on your sump pit that connects to your perimeter drain. Get a mail-in test, or consider https://www.safetysirenpro.com/

 

[Do It Myself]

It wasn't raw water. The home inspector drew it from the tap while the old system was in. The system I posted pictures of above in which it binds and stops and Culligan man said needed to be replaced.

I had the water tested for radon and it doesn't have any radon in it so there is no need for the alarm you recommended.

The toilets, sink, bathtub and white clothes turn yellow, quickly.

 

[Bannerman]

Since the test results refer to conditioned water, then it seems the existing system is functioning as there is almost no hardness or iron present.

To make a proper diagnosis for appropriate replacement equipment needed for your water conditions, the raw, unconditioned water will need to be tested.

National Labs is commonly recommended as they provide comprehensive well water testing at a reasonable price with results that are straightforward to understand. http://watercheck.myshopify.com/?aff=5

 

[Reach4]

I had the water tested for radon and it doesn't have any radon in it so there is no need for the alarm you recommended.

Check the last item in your report.

 

[Do It Myself]

It's within limits.

 

[ditttohead]

I was in agreement... nice water, but it is post treatment. Even still, look at the sodium level, this would indicate that even if it is softened, a softener is likely just a luxury item rather than a necessity. The iron level will likely be considerably different.

 

[Do It Myself]

I was in agreement... nice water, but it is post treatment. Even still, look at the sodium level, this would indicate that even if it is softened, a softener is likely just a luxury item rather than a necessity. The iron level will likely be considerably different.

So what about the extreme staining?

 

[Reach4]

It's within limits.

I was suggesting that you test your air, but I guess you knew that.

 

[Do It Myself]

I was suggesting that you test your air, but I guess you knew that.

We had a mitigation system put in. It's fine now.

 

[Do It Myself]

I was in agreement... nice water, but it is post treatment. Even still, look at the sodium level, this would indicate that even if it is softened, a softener is likely just a luxury item rather than a necessity. The iron level will likely be considerably different.

I did as you suggested and had the water retested. The results are below.

So now that we have been bypassing the filter for over two weeks our water is clearer and hasn't been getting nearly as yellow. But it does smell a bit metallic. Based on the tests would a Softener be advisable? What else would be recommended? The clothes and bowls are still getting yellow just not nearly as bad as after using the filter.

Thanks!

 

[ditttohead]

Very high level of iron and manganese. The pH could be higher but you would probably get away with a AIO iron reduction system. Adding the ozone option would be beneficial.

 

[Do It Myself]

So what would you recommend for a Fleck system and ozone option? This:
Birm Iron Filter with 10" X 54" Tank & Fleck 2510SXT AIO Oxygen Chamber System Digital Control Valve?

 

[Do It Myself]

So what would you recommend for a system that I can maintain and service myself?

 

[ditttohead]

I'm not much a fan of Birm, Katalox Light and a few other medias will perform better.