Water softener installation mistakes

[socalal]

I recently purchased a Fleck 6700XTR softener system online, and had a plumber install it. He forgot to remove the rubber plug that was in the distribution tube when he installed the valve to the resin tank, so naturally no water came out after the unit was installed and put in service. When he came back to fix the problem, in the process of removing the valve, the distribution tube was raised about 3". He tried to push the tube down as he installed the valve back on the resin tank, but I think the tube was at least 2" higher than before.

The initial water from the softener that came out of the faucets were yellow in color as well. I recently had water heater replaced and installed a whole house filter, and water was never discolored like that, so I don't think it was minerals coming off of my pipes.

I would like to know if his installation mistakes (rubber plug still in place when softener was put into service, raised distribution tube/bottom basket) would cause any problems/damage to the softener system? I was told by the online store that there was no gravel in the resin tank, only resin. What would be the cause for the initial yellow water?

He also installed the whole house filter after the softener. Is that a good thing to do? I thought it should be before to prolong the life of the softener resin.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Mialynette2003]

The color comes from the resin and should go away very quickly. He should have used water to push the distributor tube back down. Once you backwash the system, the tube go back into place. If you are on city water, the whole house filter should be before the unit.

 

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[Gary Slusser]

Leaving the plug in the DT means the plumber didn't set up the softener properly so as to be able to check its operation and tightness etc. of brine line fittings etc..

The plug could have damaged the pilot o-ring (up inside where the end of the DT goes into the bottom of the valve) or, since the DT was higher than the +/- 1/2" off of flush with the tank top Fleck allows, the DT could be crinkled from being seriously bent or the bottom basket could be or cracked; crinkled weakens plastics. Either way I would insist on a new pilot o-ring and a new DT with a new bottom basket.

And if the online guys didn't send you installation instructions and programming data and instructions, the control valve will probably be set to factory defaults and you'll have a lot of air trapped in the resin tank now that will explode out through the control valve as soon as it starts going into the backwash position in its first regeneration. That can get resin up into the control valve which isn't good.

If the DT or bottom basket breaks, your resin can get out into the plumbing and appliances and fixtures... A really bad thing. The plumber would be responsible for that so my guess is he won't mind replacing the DT much.

You should have assembled and installed the equipment yourself or been reading the instructions to the plumber as he did things.

 

[socalal]

Thank you for your replies. I had assumed that the plumber knew what he was doing, since he claimed that he had done quite a few softener installs. In retrospect I definitely should have at least assembled the unit myself.

Is there anyway to tell if the pilot o-ring is damaged, or if the bottom basket is cracked, without removing the valve again? What are the symptoms for resins in the control valve? I have programmed the valve using the defaults in the manual and ran the softener through 3 full regeneration cycles. The softener seems to be functioning ok, with the exception of the initial yellow water. The water does feel softened; I'll need to run a test kit to make sure.

Leaving the plug in the DT means the plumber didn't set up the softener properly so as to be able to check its operation and tightness etc. of brine line fittings etc..

The plug could have damaged the pilot o-ring (up inside where the end of the DT goes into the bottom of the valve) or, since the DT was higher than the +/- 1/2" off of flush with the tank top Fleck allows, the DT could be crinkled from being seriously bent or the bottom basket could be or cracked; crinkled weakens plastics. Either way I would insist on a new pilot o-ring and a new DT with a new bottom basket.

And if the online guys didn't send you installation instructions and programming data and instructions, the control valve will probably be set to factory defaults and you'll have a lot of air trapped in the resin tank now that will explode out through the control valve as soon as it starts going into the backwash position in its first regeneration. That can get resin up into the control valve which isn't good.

If the DT or bottom basket breaks, your resin can get out into the plumbing and appliances and fixtures... A really bad thing. The plumber would be responsible for that so my guess is he won't mind replacing the DT much.

You should have assembled and installed the equipment yourself or been reading the instructions to the plumber as he did things.

 

[Mialynette2003]

If you have a test kit, after a complete regen, put the unit into a fast rinse cycle and test the drain water. If you show hardness, then it is possible the o ring is damaged. I don't think that will be the case. If the DT or the bottom basket is damaged, you will get resin in the house.

 

[Gary Slusser]

Thank you for your replies. I had assumed that the plumber knew what he was doing, since he claimed that he had done quite a few softener installs. In retrospect I definitely should have at least assembled the unit myself.

Is there anyway to tell if the pilot o-ring is damaged, or if the bottom basket is cracked, without removing the valve again? What are the symptoms for resins in the control valve? I have programmed the valve using the defaults in the manual and ran the softener through 3 full regeneration cycles. The softener seems to be functioning ok, with the exception of the initial yellow water. The water does feel softened; I'll need to run a test kit to make sure.

No there is no evidence now that the o-ring or DT etc. is bad but...

If I were the plumber I would change the o-ring and DT including the bottom basket because I would not want to hear of problems like resin throughout the house some day in the future, and be responsible for it.

I would not use default settings, you'll have terrible salt efficiency. Visit the link in my signature for info on programming.