Water pressure booster pump

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GoingQuiet

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I was new to this home’s plumbing issues. Pressure was typically 30-50 psi measured at a gauge located between the softener and ultraviolet (stainless steel) tank. The 1” pvc piping is a mess. Iron levels in the water are somewhat reduced by use of 5 micron filter elements which are stringent and plug quickly. The softener has notable pressure drop at consumption flow rates above 3 gallons per minute. Pex piping into/out of the UV tank is only 3/4”.

The people wanted a quick remedy to better pressure upstairs and plan to have a new baby next week. Here’s the before picture, all that work was performed by others.
 

GoingQuiet

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The Grundfos Scala2 pump was installed on a pmb1 (pump mounting bracket) and piped primary with Viega Pureflow 1” pex.

The removable inlet check valve is installed within the bottom pipe connector. When the booster pump shuts down, this check valve acts like a foot valve on a jet pump. It retains the higher upstream pressure from going backwards into the (lower pressure) inlet source.
 

LLigetfa

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Pressure was typically 30-50 psi
First thing you could try is to raise the pressure to 40/60 or 50/70 if the well pump can produce more than 70 PSI without dead-heading. If that produces good pressure, you could then install a CSV to remove the 20 PSI variation and enjoy constant 60 PSI. If not, you could see if 60/80 is possible.
 

GoingQuiet

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The booster pump is field set to run between 78-86 psi, has a small internal pressure storage tank with Schreader (car tire) valve and is complemented with an extra pressure storage tank hanging from the ceiling which will greatly reduce short cycling and increase pump longevity.

Above the ceiling mounted tank is a tee towards a 200 psi liquid filled gauge. Upon job completion I turned on the second floor bathtub, master bath shower, half bath lavatory and kitchen sink faucets simultaneously.
The booster pump ran and maintained a constant 86 psi discharge pressure under that high flow condition. The homeowner indicated being very satisfied with the pressure.
 

GoingQuiet

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I’ve never used a cycle stop valve. Nothing against them, just never seen one in the wild up here.

The water softener is the bottleneck here.
The booster allows me to remedy without replacing the softener. Our State Department of Environmental Protection makes the installation or replacement of a water softener extremely burdensome.
 

LLigetfa

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You posted several replies after your first post while I was typing my reply.
Why was a booster pump needed? Why could not the primary pump be set to a higher pressure?
 

GoingQuiet

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I try not to push my average submersible pump beyond 70 at most because for many of the 1/2 horse pumps found around here, the pump curve chart shows a drop in efficiency beyond 63 psi. Enough so, that Goulds Pumps mentioned it in a class.
 
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GoingQuiet

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Big box hardware store grade water softener is the offending restriction point to optimal water flow here. That lady upstairs who was about to pop out a baby wants to run the shower and washing machine simultaneously and not be affected if her hubby waters the garden.

In my area I can’t replace that faulty softener with something more professional grade without a special permit including a nearly engineered drywell installed outside. Those things take more time than we had.

The booster pump achieved the result desired by the customer within the very limited timeframe provided.
 

Valveman

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I wish you luck! You should read some of the reviews on that type pump. They are made to be easy to install and replace, because you will need to replace them often. You don't hear about Cycle Stop Valves in your area because the ones we installed 28 years ago are still working, as well as the pumps they were installed on. For that reason many people who sell pumps for a living try not to let anyone know about Cycle Stop Valves.

Getting 86 PSI from a regular submersible or jet pump has nothing to do with the efficiency. A 10 GPM, 1/2HP submersible can only build about 90 PSI max, so you don't want to work it at 86 PSI. But a 10 GPM, 1HP submersible can do about 180 PSI max, and would have no problem operating at 86 PSI or even higher if needed. Even a multi-stage jet or booster pump would work. The CSV1A is adjustable from 15 to 150 PSI, and could easily be set at 86 PSI using a small 20 gallon size pressure tank and a standard 70/90 or 75/95 pressure switch setting.

The CSV is a simple mechanical valve with a single bolt to adjust the constant pressure desired. It works with the old reliable pressure tank and pressure switch method and doesn't require a very large pressure tank. The CSV would work with a normal submersible, jet, or multi-stage booster. You could use the CSV as in the PK1A kit to control a standard jet pump, and boost the pressure from the well pump the same way you are doing with the Scala. You could also just increase the size of the well pump and use the CSV to control the one pump to deliver the 86 PSI you want. Increasing the size of the well pump would be best as it is still a one pump system that way, which is less complicated, expensive, and more reliable than a two pump system. But even a two pump system can be very reliable when both the well pump and booster pump are controlled by a CSV.

A constant 86 PSI pressure is good as the homeowners are happy. But that will make them miss it that much more and that much quicker when the variable speed pump quits all to soon and when least expected and least convenient. Constant pressure is great. But a simple, mechanical way of getting constant pressure like a Cycle Stop Valve, is much more reliable than a variable speed type pump.
 
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