Water Main Connection in basement (Seeking Advice)

[lkellogg]

Hi All,

The main water supply line coming off of the meter pit (rural water) into the basement has started a very slow drip due to what appears to be corrosion on one of the fittings (see pictures).

I've repaired and soldered copper pipe before, so the replacement isn't too intimidating...since this is the main line however, I did want your advice on how to best disassemble to prevent damaging either the poly supply line, or the 3/4" copper supply line that feeds the downstream 1/2" copper and fixtures.

Would it be best to disconnect the 90 degree from the poly first, then spin the clean out fitting off the 3/4" copper? Or should I just hold the 90 stationary with a wrench and spin the clean out fitting up and off of the 90 degree first?

Any suggestions on what new couplers/fittings you would use? I don't see a need for a clean out on the supply line given we are on rural water (clean), but maybe you all see benefit in it?

Any input is appreciated!

 

[bigb56]

Have to shake my head in amazement that someone left that galv tee in there. I would cut the poly back a bit and start over with everything new, straight barb off the poly into copper to your 90 up. Maybe add a drain spigot at bucket height. I would also add some permanent support under the horizontal portion and a strap or two.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[lkellogg]

Have to shake my head in amazement that someone left that galv tee in there. I would cut the poly back a bit and start over with everything new, straight barb off the poly into copper to your 90 up. Maybe add a drain spigot at bucket height. I would also add some permanent support under the horizontal portion and a strap or two.

Much appreciated! And I agree on the galvanized...I just tore some soaked drywall out of the bathroom that had a galvanized long 90 (on copper) for the toilet supply. Can't figure why anybody would have thought to go about it that way.

 

[Breplum]

Idiots that didn't know enough to use all stainless steel hose clamps...gosh

 

[Reach4]

Idiots that didn't know enough to use all stainless steel hose clamps...gosh

Some can be misleading, I think. It can take extra attention.

 

[lkellogg]

So I've got the supplies to replace the galvanized tee. One final question for you all though...how concerned should I be soldering within 6" of the poly pipe (when everything is connected up and ready to take solder)? My concern is heat transfer through the copper pipe and brass tee (and brass 90) somehow damaging the poly pipe. I've read of the wet cold rag approach, and can go that route if it's adequate.

I did buy a copper union that I could install just in case, and the soldering that would be involved could all be done while disconnected from the poly..therefore no heat transfer.

Am I overthinking this? I just want to be extra careful to not damage the poly, as I really don't want to have to replace that given it could involve excavation between the house and meter pit.

 

[Reach4]

I think care is warranted. It almost looks like you could slip a shallow bowl under that elbow and have water around that elbow.

You will be able to make one good use of that tee to drain water after you shut off the pump.

A hot torch may be easier on the plastic than a not-so-hot torch. Get in, solder, get out.

Why 6 inches and not 12 inches? Maybe show a photo of what is above.

Is that 3/4 inch copper (7/8 OD) or 1-inch?

I was also wondering if a Sharkbite would be useful-- no heat.

 

[lkellogg]

I think care is warranted. It almost looks like you could slip a shallow bowl under that elbow and have water around that elbow.

You will be able to make one good use of that tee to drain water after you shut off the pump.

A hot torch may be easier on the plastic than a not-so-hot torch. Get in, solder, get out.

Why 6 inches and not 12 inches? Maybe show a photo of what is above.

Is that 3/4 inch copper (7/8 OD) or 1-inch?

I was also wondering if a Sharkbite would be useful-- no heat.

Could give the bowl trick a shot, certainly possible.

My thought was that I'm going to try and leave the poly as undisturbed as possible, so going to make the cut above the tee, then spin the tee off of the 90 that is clamped into the poly. From that point, I'd just be replacing the galvanized tee with brass, adding a 3/4" threaded male sweat onto some 3/4", spinning into the brass tee, then soldering the 3/4" above it with a coupler. There's a ball valve just above where the picture cuts off, and it's in good shape, so going to just try and replace whats between that shutoff and the 90.

 

[Reach4]

How about you make the cut 12 inches above the elbow. Unscrew the tee.

Take a new piece of copper pipe with a FIP adapter installed on one end. Then connect the new piece and the existing pipe together with a repair coupling (no dimple, so it slides). They even make 6 and 12 inch long repair couplings that you cut to size, in case you need to bridge a gap. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-600-306PK-3-4-x-6-Sweat-Full-Slip-Copper-Repair-Coupling Available in 3/4 and 1/2 inch, but I don't think inch. But slip joint couplings are sure available in inch.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Copper-Pressure-Slip-Coupling-Fitting-C601HD1/100344195

You normally would not want a valve before the pressure switch, because if somebody closes that valve, the pump motor could burn out. If you have such a valve, take steps to cause it to not be inadvertently closed.