Water Line Branch Question on Site Plan

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Jb9

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Hello,

I am working on my site plan and have a quick question about branching a water line to a detached structure. The detached structure is small and only has a kitchen sink/shower/lav/toilet. Additionally, I plan to build this small structure FIRST before I build the main house. The connections shown are from the town and at the street. How does a pro approach this branch? Do I need to verify psi with the local authorities? It is allowed by my local jursidiction just so permits are pulled. As I work through the sequencing with my excavator, I think putting the utilities in first is a good strategy so I just want to hear how a pro might do it. Is there a fitting that allows one to branch a water line?

Thanks.
 

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Dj2

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"Do I need to verify psi with the local authorities? "
It won't hurt to get this information from your water company. I always like to know that. However, if you connect to city water, chances are that you have 80 psi or higher coming in.

Advice: At least for your rough plumbing, get a plumbers to do it and pass inspection on the first try. Money well spent.
 

Jb9

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Thanks for these suggestions. I assume I will have a 3/4" supply line so I will put a 3/4" (copper) tee in at that location and cap the portion of the line that will be going to the house. I will check to make sure I have 80 psi with the town. I wasn't sure if I will needed anything to maintain pressure after the tee.
 

Reach4

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I assume I will have a 3/4" supply line
You will want to go larger than that. Don't feel that because you have 3/4 at the meter, that going bigger than that for the run to the house is a waste.

Many areas will prescribe a minimum size, and that might be bigger than 1 inch.
 

Jb9

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Thanks for the tip to increase to 1" from 3/4" if that is what the meter pit provides. A good recommendation I will take. For the underground supply line, is copper or PEX better? I will be using pex inside but I have heard there is a PEX that is harder than most and suitable for underground runs.
 

Dj2

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I prefer 1" copper type L for the main. It's a bit more expensive and usually a once in a lifetime expense. When you dig your trench, put down 2" of sand, then lay the pipe, cover with 2" sand, then finally cover and compact with dirt up to grade.

The new pipe can go the same route as the original pipe, or you can re-route it, but keep the depth to code.
 

Reach4

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Thanks for the tip to increase to 1" from 3/4" if that is what the meter pit provides. A good recommendation I will take. For the underground supply line, is copper or PEX better?
https://www.huduser.gov/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf page 77 talks about PEX for the water service line.

For water line service, I think poly pipe used for wells ASTM D2239 poly where IPS ID is held and OD varies with
PSI ratings, is often used rather than PEX. It is cheaper and is larger ID for a given nominal size. It is used with barbed fittings. Since your run is not that long, the cheaper aspect probably does not matter. One inch PEX should be fine. Note the snaking of the run described in that design document pointed to above. PEX and other poly will expand and contract with temperature more than copper. I think these all should be good.
 

Jb9

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Thanks Reach4. I read that PDF you posted. There is a lot of useful information there. I definitely agree that a larger ID is better. I couldn't find the snaking of the run in the design document. What page was that described? Due to limited space, I was leaning towards a single manifold versus a home run configuration. I have all my plumbing contained in a single generous (~7" deep) service cavity. I think a 1st floor manifold with shut offs might work well. I am going to call the person who works at the DPW today and confirm the meter pit line size. I will update this thread with what I learn.
 

Reach4

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I couldn't find the snaking of the run in the design document. What page was that described?
page 77.
Due to limited space, I was leaning towards a single manifold versus a home run configuration.
That is nice. If you run 3/8 to the lavatory, you will get hot water faster presuming you are not recirculating.
I have all my plumbing contained in a single generous (~7" deep) service cavity.
Maybe you have room for a water softener.
 

Jb9

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Thanks Reach4. I will take a look later. Just spoke with the DPW folks and they said that line at the meter pit is probably 1" so that is a relief. I do think that is a better inside diameter to be serving the structures.
 
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