Water level, refilling, and leaks in toilet

[plumbing_magic]

Hello:

In order to adjust the water level in the toilet tank what needs to be done? I think item 1 (a piece of plastic that juts out) and item 2 (a screw) in the picture are relevant here.

When the tank refills, should water be flowing through the tubes labeled 3 and 4. In this instance, water does not flow through the tube connected to the overflow pipe (#4); however, the water level in the toilet bowl is normal? How does that happen?

If there is no leak at the base of the fill valve assembly (#5), and the tank empties with the shutoff valve closed, does that mean the flapper (#6) needs to be changed?

If water leaks through the base of the fill valve assembly (#5), can it be fixed by loosening and retightening the nut underneath or do I need to purchase a new fill valve assembly? I noticed a leak after the fill valve unit was jostled around a bit.

Thank you so much!

 

[Jadnashua]

If the water level drops after you shut off the supply, yes, the flapper needs to be replaced. But, before you do that, lift it up and feel the mating surface to make sure it is smooth and doesn't have anything on it. A much rarer situation would be that it's leaking around the base of the tower assembly, and if that were the case, you'd have to remove the tank to tighten the nut underneath.

Typically, once originally adjusted, you shouldn't need to readjust the fill level in the toilet. IF it continues to run later on, it's usually a sign that the seal is failing. On some, that can be easily replaced. No idea on yours if that's true - it doesn't look like the brands I'm familiar with.

It's normal for water to flow out of that hose into the tower...that is the water that refills the bowl. If the bowl water height isn't correct, you'll get inconsistent flushes or poor ones.

Some valves release water in multiple places...don't know it that's normal on that valve.

If you can turn that white shaft, and it moves the float, if you moved it down some, when the water fills, it will apply more pressure to that failing seal, and might buy you some time before you replace it. Don't know if that works that way...is the bottom of that shaft threaded? If so, it probably is the adjustment. On similar valves, there's a rough adjustment where you can move the whole tower up/down, then the fine adjustment is done by adjusting the float. On those, for the rough adjustment, you twist the body which releases the cam, then you can push/pull the whole thing up/down, then twist it back to lock it in position. I'd be a bit leery about doing that on an older one, especially if I wasn't sure that is how it worked. The plastic can get brittle with age, and things could crack.

Might be time for a new fill valve and flapper (or, replace the water hog with a new, toilet!).

 

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[plumbing_magic]

If the water level drops after you shut off the supply, yes, the flapper needs to be replaced. But, before you do that, lift it up and feel the mating surface to make sure it is smooth and doesn't have anything on it. A much rarer situation would be that it's leaking around the base of the tower assembly, and if that were the case, you'd have to remove the tank to tighten the nut underneath.

Typically, once originally adjusted, you shouldn't need to readjust the fill level in the toilet. IF it continues to run later on, it's usually a sign that the seal is failing. On some, that can be easily replaced. No idea on yours if that's true - it doesn't look like the brands I'm familiar with.

It's normal for water to flow out of that hose into the tower...that is the water that refills the bowl. If the bowl water height isn't correct, you'll get inconsistent flushes or poor ones.

Some valves release water in multiple places...don't know it that's normal on that valve.

If you can turn that white shaft, and it moves the float, if you moved it down some, when the water fills, it will apply more pressure to that failing seal, and might buy you some time before you replace it. Don't know if that works that way...is the bottom of that shaft threaded? If so, it probably is the adjustment. On similar valves, there's a rough adjustment where you can move the whole tower up/down, then the fine adjustment is done by adjusting the float. On those, for the rough adjustment, you twist the body which releases the cam, then you can push/pull the whole thing up/down, then twist it back to lock it in position. I'd be a bit leery about doing that on an older one, especially if I wasn't sure that is how it worked. The plastic can get brittle with age, and things could crack.

Might be time for a new fill valve and flapper (or, replace the water hog with a new, toilet!).

Hi, thank you for your reply!

I decided to get a new fill valve and flapper. I removed both the fill valve and flapper for replacement. I am wondering if the black gasket under the overflow pipe will leak because as I was removing the flapper some of that gasket material got on my fingers. Maybe it is only corroded superficially on the outside. You think I have to replace that gasket? Looks like those three screws can be removed and the gasket can be replaced, but I want to leave it alone if it is not on the verge of causing a problem. The unit is a single-piece Glacier Bay What do you think? Thanks!

 

[Jadnashua]

The water quality can degrade the rubber components, but that seal could last a very long time yet. You'll know if it leaks once the new flapper is installed. It appears that, yes, removing those three screws (don't drop them in the guts of the toilet!) should allow removal of the tower and then replacing the gasket. But, you may need to contact the manufacturer to get one to fit. While the other parts are often available as generic, that gasket MAY not be.

If the area around where the filler valve seals is rough, a light touch with some emery cloth or sandpaper will take the rough spots off and make a better seal. Same is true under the tower seal if you end up replacing that bit.

 

[plumbing_magic]

Thanks for your help! 24 hours after install, no leak at the fill valve nut and the overflow pipe gasket appears to be holding. Powerful flush and fast refill time with the new parts.

Parts used:
Fluidmaster 400A Universal Toilet Fill Valve
Fluidmaster 502 PerforMAX 2 in. Water-Saving Flapper