Water heater sulfur

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Geo422

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Any ideals of removing sulfur odor from hot water ? I have tried removing the anode rod but can not get the nut to break.
 

Reach4

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It will usually take an impact wrench with a 1-1/16 impact socket to break that free.

You can reduce the population of sulfate reducing bacteria by cranking the WH temperature up to 140 for a while, but take steps to avoid scalding.

I put a Ceranode powered anode in to not contribute to H2S production and still protect the WH. There are cheaper ones with shorter anodes, but I think longer is better -- like the original anode rods. But even a stubby powered anode will be better than a brass plug.

I presume you are on your own well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. December-March is usually not a good time for sanitizing a well. Producing H2S in a WH takes 3 things, as far as I can tell. Sulfate. SRB. Metal ions normally from a sacrificial anode. I don't know how quickly SRB repopulates, but if you can kill off even those in the nearby aquifer, and in the WH and pipes, you will get time. How long? Not sure.
 

Geo422

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It will usually take an impact wrench with a 1-1/16 impact socket to break that free.

You can reduce the population of sulfate reducing bacteria by cranking the WH temperature up to 140 for a while, but take steps to avoid scalding.

I put a Ceranode powered anode in to not contribute to H2S production and still protect the WH. There are cheaper ones with shorter anodes, but I think longer is better -- like the original anode rods. But even a stubby powered anode will be better than a brass plug.

I presume you are on your own well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. December-March is usually not a good time for sanitizing a well. Producing H2S in a WH takes 3 things, as far as I can tell. Sulfate. SRB. Metal ions normally from a sacrificial anode. I don't know how quickly SRB repopulates, but if you can kill off even those in the nearby aquifer, and in the WH and pipes, you will get time. How long? Not sure.
It will usually take an impact wrench with a 1-1/16 impact socket to break that free.

You can reduce the population of sulfate reducing bacteria by cranking the WH temperature up to 140 for a while, but take steps to avoid scalding.

I put a Ceranode powered anode in to not contribute to H2S production and still protect the WH. There are cheaper ones with shorter anodes, but I think longer is better -- like the original anode rods. But even a stubby powered anode will be better than a brass plug.

I presume you are on your own well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. December-March is usually not a good time for sanitizing a well. Producing H2S in a WH takes 3 things, as far as I can tell. Sulfate. SRB. Metal ions normally from a sacrificial anode. I don't know how quickly SRB repopulates, but if you can kill off even those in the nearby aquifer, and in the WH and pipes, you will get time. How long? Not sure.
It will usually take an impact wrench with a 1-1/16 impact socket to break that free.

You can reduce the population of sulfate reducing bacteria by cranking the WH temperature up to 140 for a while, but take steps to avoid scalding.

I put a Ceranode powered anode in to not contribute to H2S production and still protect the WH. There are cheaper ones with shorter anodes, but I think longer is better -- like the original anode rods. But even a stubby powered anode will be better than a brass plug.

I presume you are on your own well. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. December-March is usually not a good time for sanitizing a well. Producing H2S in a WH takes 3 things, as far as I can tell. Sulfate. SRB. Metal ions normally from a sacrificial anode. I don't know how quickly SRB repopulates, but if you can kill off even those in the nearby aquifer, and in the WH and pipes, you will get time. How long? Not sure.
Reach I did get the rod out , took a lot of hamming with the electric impact. I did spray some PB Blaster on it and allowed it to set for a day os so.
I am on well water we have an whole house filter ,iron remover tank ,water softener and RO for kitchen . Only hot water smells terrible. I do not have the rod yet that you spoke about. But it coming ,iI did pour bleach down the tank. Thank you
 

Reach4

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When you get the new anode, you don't need nearly as much torque. Do use PTFE (Teflon) tape. Don't worry about that serving as an insulator. When you tighten, the threads quickly cut right through the PTFE, and you will have a good electrical connection.

I put laundry detergent into my old WH as I was cleaning. Then dumped that, and put in phosphoric acid. Several cycles of trying to get old gunk out.
 
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