Water heater problem

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bikeboy

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I am having a water heating problem with my 50 gallon electric water heater. Tank is only a couple of years old. The water is chlorinated coming from the street. Living in Tennessee, The water line from street is only 18" below grade, and @ least 500 ft. before entering tank. With both thermostats set @ 120 deg. , I'll get 90deg. @Tub spickit. when turned to max. reading 150 deg. @ tank, I'll get 110deg @ tub. This is after letting thermostats shut off heating elements, and set for a while . It's only a problem when i cant fill whirlpool tub, esp. in winter months. I tested the elements resistance, and continuity, voltage and amp draw. Elements seem to be good. Thermostats are set against tank. I've once cleaned the elements w/ clr to remove sediment. There is probably now some chlorine sediment around the anode rod and elements, but the thermostats are shutting off, @ given temps. The only thing I can come up w/ is the therms. aren't accurate. Also, when tub is filling, water has greenish tint. There is a notable difference, when ground water temperatures change, but shouldn't change heaters operation when resting.

What do I look for ?
HR...
 

Terry

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Some single handle tub faucets have a temperature limit on the handle that can be adjusted. You might post a 800 pixel picture here of what you have. With many, you can pull the handle and rotate the stop to give you the full range.
 

bikeboy

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Some single handle tub faucets have a temperature limit on the handle that can be adjusted. You might post a 800 pixel picture here of what you have. With many, you can pull the handle and rotate the stop to give you the full range.

Well; No mixer on water heater. I checked temps @ the lower drain and upper pressure relief valve. Both therms are set @150; upper relief valve is reading 120, and @The relief valve just getting warm temp. When I ran water out of drain valve, lower element came on and is drawing current tested by loosing one screw on element and getting good arc., and still getting only 110 @ laundry tub. There it certainly shouldn't have a mixing valve. ?? I may have to pull the therms and elements to clean them, and either test again for continuity and resistance or replace and cross my fingers. I'm a retired electrician, and used to replace these parts all the time on service calls, but never tested for temperature, only if both elements pulled current and switch over. I figure if there was a short in one of the elements , it would eventually short out, but BOTH are pulling 4.4K watts. seems I had to run much hot water for the upper element to kick in ?? Thank You for reply...
 

WorthFlorida

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Turn off all cold water valves to eliminate any cross mix and check again. Start at the closest fixture to the water heater. Did this just happening or has it been there from day one?
 

bikeboy

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Turn off all cold water valves to eliminate any cross mix and check again. Start at the closest fixture to the water heater. Did this just happening or has it been there from day one?


I just checked @2 outlets with the cold valves shut, and still the same. I have not tested these output temps till recently. Still; I have to figure if the thermostats are shutting off the elements; wouldn't that eliminate a problem with the elements, esp. if when switched on, there drawing proper amperage ? This happening to 2 water heaters opposite ends of house! Would the resistance spec of a 4500w element be 240v/4500w ; .0533 ohms ?
HR....
 
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WorthFlorida

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All cold water valves in the home must be closed to check the temperature. Cold water could be mixing with the hot anywhere and impact any tap. With a clamp meter there should be about 9 amps per leg. 18+ amps total at 240 volts. I do not think your problem is WH related. What are you measuring the water with? With the WH at temperature, did you open the T&P valve and check the temperature there? Even if one element is burned out at the set temperature after a few hours the water will still reach 120 degree setting, you will just have a less hot water and a slow recovery.

Test across both element screws and resistance should read about 12.8 Ohms for 240-Volt 4500-Watt element. For 30 gallon tank with 3500-Watt elements, reading is about 16 Ohms. Open reading means element is bad.

This second water heater? Are the hot water pipes connected between the two WH's?
 

bikeboy

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All cold water valves in the home must be closed to check the temperature. Cold water could be mixing with the hot anywhere and impact any tap. With a clamp meter there should be about 9 amps per leg. 18+ amps total at 240 volts. I do not think your problem is WH related. What are you measuring the water with? With the WH at temperature, did you open the T&P valve and check the temperature there? Even if one element is burned out at the set temperature after a few hours the water will still reach 120 degree setting, you will just have a less hot water and a slow recovery.

Test across both element screws and resistance should read about 12.8 Ohms for 240-Volt 4500-Watt element. For 30 gallon tank with 3500-Watt elements, reading is about 16 Ohms. Open reading means element is bad.

This second water heater? Are the hot water pipes connected between the two WH's?


I've checked the temp @ the T+P output after letting run a little; and also checked @ the drain. 110 @ T+P, and luke warm @ drain. Not sure why. Also; 100 deg@ laundry tub near WH (which should have no chance of mixing) ; While WH therm set @150, or max of therm. I checked the temps w/ a Water pocket temp sensor from supply. The Whirlpool tub has separate hot/cold faucets @ spicket. Again; therms are shutting off @ some given temperature . I may try changing therms. I have 2nd WH opposite side of house, not connected to other system. I'll check resistance on elements tomarrow. volts and amp draw is correct.

Thanks for reply HR...
 
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