Water Heater Hoses

[go_hercules]

I am in California where we use flex lines to the water heater. I have always used the corrugated copper flex pipes in the past, but am putting in an expansion tank and braided stainless flex hoses would surely be a lot easier to fit. Is there any particular reason to avoid those on a water heater? The corrugated copper lines last me the life of the water heater pretty much. Do you need to change the braided ones more often? Etc. Etc. Don't want to trade one problem for another. Thanks.

 

[Terry]

Like you say, the corrugated supply lines last as long as the water heater. The braided supplies do not. I'm finding plenty of leaking braided supply lines out there.
They can also be the cause of black specks showing up on the hot side of faucets.

Look which one is leaking. A few drips to be sure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Kreemoweet]

The braid-covered water heater connectors are frequently made of highly questionable Chinese "rubber" on the inside. The ones I have been forced to install
have been very stiff, and subject to kinking if bent too sharply, which other sorts of hoses could easily handle. The end fittings also usually have quite a small
bore, as they must be inserted inside the inner rubber hose.

 

[hj]

There are also corrugated stainless steel connectors, which are just as flexible as the braided ones.

 

[go_hercules]

Wow, sounds like I don't want the braided stainless ones. HJ, I have never used the corrugated stainless. Would have thought they were less flexible than corrugated copper.

 

[Terry]

Corrugated stainless will bend enough for what you are doing. I like to use the 24" connectors, it allows for a bigger bend if needed. The 18" are tougher to bend correctly.

The best method to install either a copper or stainless corrugated, it to thread the flex to one side, either at the supply, which is the side I like or at the heater, but not tightly. You want it to be able to swivel at this point.
You then take the free end with one hand and guide it to the next connection. Thread that up, and then go back and evenly snug up the nuts, making sure that the supply line is meeting the ends squarely.

 

[go_hercules]

Thank you for that advice. I will figure out a way to use the corrugated, will look at the stainless corrugated as well while I'm at it. Glad I posted here so that I avoided the braided lines. Thanks.

 

[Plumber69]

is this the best way to hook up a hwt, here we have no earthquakes

 

[Terry]

is this the best way to hook up a hwt, here we have no earthquakes

You're joking right? You're on the coast I'm on which is earthquake city. My brother Clare and my uncle Dana went to Anchorage after that large quake to repair and replace the plumbing infrastructure in the streets after that large one. We've had several large ones in the Seattle area, and you're between all of that.
Flex connectors would be a good idea where you're at.

 

[Plumber69]

You're joking right? You're on the coast I'm on which is earthquake city. My brother Clare and my uncle Dana went to Anchorage after that large quake to repair and replace the plumbing infrastructure in the streets after that large one. We've had several large ones in the Seattle area, and you're between all of that.
Flex connectors would be a good idea where you're at.

Ones we get are minor, I've been hard piping them in

 

[go_hercules]

Hey Terry, I saw this picture on one of your posts. Had two questions. Any problem with the weight levering off the inlet like that, even if it fills with water? And also, if I were to add a brass tee as shown to an existing nipple, will tightening it potentially cause leaking where the nipple goes into the tank? I'm afraid if I turned the tee enough to line it up I would end up twisting the nipple and upsetting the joint there, unless I removed the nipple/dip tube and resealed it. I do like the simplicity of the install.