Jerome2877
In the Trades
I talking about hard copper with fittings soldered rather than the flex lines.
I talking about hard copper with fittings soldered rather than the flex lines.
Going back a ways in this thread, I think there needs to be a clarification of terms. A PRV is a pressure regulator that is installed on the incoming water supply line. It might well be call a pressure reducer, because it is used when the water supply pressure is too high. A T/P valve or Temperature/Pressure valve is installed on the water heater either on the top or topside depending on the manufacturer. This is a safety device to protect the tank (and house) in case of a malfunction of temperature or pressure. Temperature and Pressure are related in that when water heats it expands and with no place for the expansion to go, the heater becomes something like a pressure cooker. The pressure can rise so much the tank will explode. The T/P is designed to trip and release this pressure if the temperature reached boiling or the pressure reaches 150 psi. Now this is old hat to most of us, but to a novice, the terms for and uses of these devices can be confusing. A thermal expansion tank should always be installed when a PRV is installed as this gives the expanded water a temporary place to go. Lowering the PRV setting will not prevent water expansion. Actually, 50 psi is plenty high enough pressure. That's what my PRV is set for. BTW, the expansion tank is air charged and the pressure should be the same as the PRV setting. If I'm not mistaken, they come preset at 45 psi (don't take that without checking) Use a tire gauge to check. These contain only a small volume of air, so use extreme caution when adding air. It would be very easy to rupture the diaphram.
Many supply houses are only open to the trades.
If anyone doubts the reliability of the thermal expansion bypass, then add a 75 psi or adjustable 8$ well-type pressure relief valve.
This is awkward, but...
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