Water Heater and Electrolysis

[gkdiamond]

I have a few questions?

I have a gas water heater that is installed in my garage. After it was three or four years old I started noticing that a lot less water was coming from the hot water side of my faucets even if they were turned all the way on. I turned off the gas and opened up the drain but everything looked okay. I shut the water valve off then disconnect the flex tube on the hot water side. The tube is copper on the wall side and is sweated to the copper pipe. On the side where it connects to the heater it has a brass nut. The opening just above the brass nut where the copper tube starts was almost completely sealed with what looked and felt like black metal. I couldn't even stick a screwdriver through it. Because I didn't want to attempt unsoldering and replacing the tubing (the right thing to do!) I ended drilling through the deposit and reeming it out and yes I knew there was a possibility that it might start again. The cold water side was just fine.

My water heater recently went out after over 15 years. The tubing on the hot water side is again almost plugged up with just a slit across the middle. I am going to use a flex tube that has nuts on both ends so that it can be replaced easily. My question is why is this happening? The nipple coming out of the hot side of the water heater is the standard looking shiny silver metal (not sure what kind). I thought the brass nut was suppose to prevent this from happening. Unless the copper tubing is somehow making contact with the nipple?

Does changing the Anode rod approximately every 5 years really make the heater last any longer? My heater sits on an 18" pedestal so there is no clearance to remove the rod. The heater would have to be tilted forward. My heaters T&P valve is soldered to copper pipe and plumbed through the wall were it exits and terminates with an 90 degree elbow outside several inches above the ground. On the new heater, I would either have to make the pipe disconnectable (not sure if code allows it) or just bring a length of pipe down the side of the heater so that it can be tilted with the heater. Any suggestions on how to best make the pipe disconnectable (if allowed) or would it just be better to bring it down the side? Is it even worth changing the rod?

I'm also wondering why the builders and their plumbers do not put a drain pan under the heater when they install it and just charge a little more to cover the cost? They certainly know it's going to leak.

 

[Cookie]

As far as the black stuff I am not sure what that is, maybe someone else can answer that question. The nipple on the new one should be galvanized and plastic lined to prevent rusting and dialetric action should a copper female adapter be used. The Anode Rod should be checked after the first 3 years, you may find it is gone, then. You can get flexible anode rods for tight spots. The T&P valve should not be soldered to the copper it should be threaded. You need to reconnect from the heater to where it goes out the wall. It should have a drain pan under it and the drip pan is normally piped to the floor drain but, if you do not have a floor drain, you can attach a hose connection to it and in the event, it leaks, hook your hose up to it.

 

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[gkdiamond]

Thanks, I had no idea flexible Anode rods are made, that will save a lot of hassel with the T&P connection as well as the exhaust vent connection. What are they made of and do they last as long?

I'm was thinking that the black stuff was mineral deposit buildup caused by electrolysis but I don't know why. Maybe the nipple wasn't plastic lined but the nut does look to be brass. The T&P valve wasn't soldered directly to the copper pipe, there was a fitting threaded into the valve and soldered to the pipe. I got a drip pan for the new heater, I was just wondering why builders don't use them on new homes.

 

[Cookie]

Back when your house was built it wasn't code, but it is now. Anode rods are made out of aluminum and they come in sections and the sections are bendable. They last about 3 years on average, and that is why I said to check after 3 years. The water PH varies all over the country and that is what determines how long they last; and I don't know how your water is.
Also, the reason you are never supposed to drink water from the hot side is because the aluminum side disintegrates slowly, and you don't want to drink it. Anode rods are available at Home Depot.

 

[Redwood]

Actually Cookie most water heater are supplied with magnesium anodes. Replacements are available in magnesium, or, aluminum. Aluminum is usually used for a replacement anode when there is a Sulfur Reducing Bacteria problem or, the magnesium sulfide reaction occurs. Magnesium actually offers better protection but is replaced if there are problems...

Some claims are made that with a aluminum rod that drinking hot water may contribute to alzheimers but don't worry its just speculation and isn't proven... I drink it all the time myself and... and... ummm.... I forgot what I was going to say!

 

[Cookie]

You are right but it depends on what part of the country you are in as to which rod is used. This man was talking about rod replacement and aluminum anodes are what most replacements are made of; even on line it is more difficult to find magnesium as opposed to aluminum. The ones at Home Depot are aluminum at least in my area.

 

[Furd]

That black stuff is known by the very technical term of crud. It happens when a dielectric union (which rarely does what it is supposed to) is used instead of a 6 inch brass nipple.

(It's a form of iron oxide, i.e. rust.)

 

[Winslow]

remove them crappy dialectric nipples from the heater and put in brass nipples.

 

[Cass]

The plastic lined work well just not as much flow...brass of course would be best.

 

[gkdiamond]

Brass Nipples

Thanks, I went with a braided hose that doesn't need a nipple. The water heater end of it has a long threaded brass insert that takes the place of the nipple.