Waste Plumbing Question, Wye not?

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

Good Morning! I'm new here, just joined and searched for this question and was unable to find the answer.

Can you turn a Wye on its Y, for lack of a better term? For those that like to read, I explained a lot below the photos. For those who don't look at the photo and tell me if it is a- okay or a no go, Please.

Can I turn a 3" Wye diagonally, so it essentially acts as a 45 bend with a 45 that I could reduce a 3" to a 1.5" and tie my kitchen into it? The only reason I ask is if I do that VS just whats there now (a standard wye) it'll buy some space in order to make the turn into the existing stack. I've attached some photos to show what I want to do. I don't see why not, but that's why I'm asking for a little help.

I bought a home that was in need of some serious repair. I've gotten pretty far, submitted my permits and such but have a quick question or two.

I'm doing my waste plumbing, I have a septic (which is getting replaced) so I will have the ability to move and replace my soil stack / clean out to the tank. As of now, i'm going to connect it so I can test and sparing use my system (septic field is functioning, but not well).

All in the same area, I'm connecting a
- 2" for my washer > sink > pump w/ check valve
- 2" for my tub overflow / drain
- 1.5" for my kitchen sink

My plan is to use a 90" with a 2" side ell for my shower since my tub drain/overflow is real close and a 3>2" wye sits too far forward. AND then have my kitchen sink connect into the 3" after the 90 (vertical now).

Can I turn a 3" Wye diagonally, so it essentially acts as a 45 bend with a 45 that I could reduce a 3" to a 1.5" and tie my kitchen into it? The only reason I ask is if I do that VS just whats there now (a standard wye) it'll buy some space in order to make the turn into the existing stack. I've attached some photos to show what I want to do. I don't see why not, but that's why I'm asking for a little help.

I'm in NJ and new to home owner ship, let alone plumbing. I work in a mechanical trade with electrical and hydraulics so I get the basics of flow and connections, and I've done as much research as I can but haven't found a yeah this is fine or no this won't pass. Thanks!

For those curious, I did 3" clean out > 3x 3x1.5 wye (vanity / d/w) > 3x3x3" wye (toilet) > 3x3x3" wye on a 45, with a 45 to the 3" vent > 3x3x2 wye (washer/sink/pump) > PROPOSED 3x3x2 90 w/side ell (Currently just a 90) > PROPOSED 3x3x3 Wye w/reducer (currently a 3x3x1.5 wye for the kitchen sink)

Vanity/ DW and Kitchen sink have their own vents that will tie into the 3" in the attic. shower/overflow isn't installed yet in the photos but its a tight corner over there since it's right below.

Thanks a ton!

 

[Reach4]

Yes wye.
I don't know 90 with side opening.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

Yes wye.
I don't know 90 with side opening.

Thanks Reach4. From what I found the 90 with an Ell is okay for waste, not for venting (unless the 90 is on its side horizontal to horizontal and the ell sticks straight up. I appreciate it!

 

[Stuff]

Keep in mind that a shower or tub connected there will need its own vent.

Some will get fussy about your lav's connection to the 3". As it is a wet vent it might need rolled up. UPC says needs to be 2" while IPC is OK 1.5" as single fixture. Your locals may want it to be 2".

While you have everything open you should run a vent to the basement. Use for the pumping station and laundry.

 

[Terry]

The kitchen sink is 2" for the main waste, and can be 1.5" for the venting and the trap arm.
The kitchen cleanout, which needs to be accessible is 2".

The shower needs a vent after the p-trap.

Most codes require 2" on the wet portion of a wet vent which would include the lav.

The washer can't be part of a bathroom wet vent, it's a pumped system.

 

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

Keep in mind that a shower or tub connected there will need its own vent.

Some will get fussy about your lav's connection to the 3". As it is a wet vent it might need rolled up. UPC says needs to be 2" while IPC is OK 1.5" as single fixture. Your locals may want it to be 2".

While you have everything open you should run a vent to the basement. Use for the pumping station and laundry.

Hey Stuff,

I plan on adding a 2" vent over by the pump in the basement (about 12' to the left of all this, same wall) and running it through the studs. I have ductwork im making a small soffit for so my plan is to run it along side, and then tie it into the existing 3" vent stack. less holes in the roof the better haha.

I did not know about the tub/overflow needing a vent upwards, esp since the one I bought only has a T where the overflow and drain meet. So it should go T > out to the drain and up to the overflow, and then above the overflow should be another vent pipe going out to the roof?

What do you mean need rolled up? I am unfamiliar to the term. It will be a 2 fixture technically, since my dishwasher will tie into it too. Reason being is my current kitchen sink to dishwasher drain is 14', my dishwasher to bathroom sink is 2'. I had figured it could be a 1.5" like an average kitchen sink is but let me know if im wrong!. I'll attach a photo that better explains my set up.

Thanks!

 

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

The kitchen sink is 2" for the main waste, and can be 1.5" for the venting and the trap arm.
The kitchen cleanout, which needs to be accessible is 2".

The shower needs a vent after the p-trap.

Most codes require 2" on the wet portion of a wet vent which would include the lav.

Hey Terry,

Thanks for the reply. A few quick questions -

1. I had asked the gentleman before you, how do you vent the drain/overflow when the standard fitting package comes with just a prefabricated 90 to the overflow?
2. Can the kitchen clean out be a P trap with a cleanout in the bottom of it? I have seen many of those. Otherwise, I can just do a 2" wye and put a cleanout on the horizontal portion of the Wye (and the Y + 45 will then adapt down to a 1.5" for the trap arm)
3. So essentially I will need a 2 x 2 x 1.5 (2 bottom, 2 side, 1.5 top) for both the lav and kitchen, with the 1.5" able to be the vent. How does one run a 2" pipe through the 2x4 wall where code only allows 60% of a non load bearing wall to be cut? Thats only 2.1" and a 2" pipe is 2.375" wide.

Thanks!

 

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

Terry and Stuff,

I updated the two photos with red showing stuff to fix, and green showing whats good. I'm glad I didn't glue anything yet! haha.

Thanks guys I really appreciate it. I'm trying to learn to do this right. I work full time and trying to get this place ready to be lived in. With only one visit from the town not multiple!

Let me know if all looks good.

 

[Stuff]

Do you have a shower or a tub/shower combo? Shower needs a 2" but tub combo can get by with 1 1/2". If tub you will likely be cutting out the sub floor - one of the reasons you install the tub or shower before your flooring - the cement board does not go under a tub.

Vent for lav should be 2" since is wet venting toilet. Local codes may allow 1 1/2".

Dishwasher can't be combined with bathroom with this wet venting.

 

[wwhitney]

I'm not an expert, but that 3" elbow with a 2" side inlet, I don't believe it is a drainage pattern fitting. Certainly the 2" inlet doesn't have the radius that a typically horizontal to vertical bend would have, e.g. like a sanitary tee does.

Why not replace the single wye that is currently at the bottom of your assembly with a 3x3x2x2 double wye? Then you can bring two drains in at that elevation, instead of using the side inlet on the elbow.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[JOSEPH SMOOT]

I'm not an expert, but that 3" elbow with a 2" side inlet, I don't believe it is a drainage pattern fitting. Certainly the 2" inlet doesn't have the radius that a typically horizontal to vertical bend would have, e.g. like a sanitary tee does.

Why not replace the single wye that is currently at the bottom of your assembly with a 3x3x2x2 double wye? Then you can bring two drains in at that elevation, instead of using the side inlet on the elbow.

Cheers, Wayne

Hey Wayne,

I've never seen that style fitting before at least at home depot. I'll have to check that out! Thanks for your input on the 90 with an side inlet. I'll steer away from that fitting.