Washing machine supply line with new Bosch Dishwasher

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by gdmsndmxr, Dec 19, 2020.

  1. gdmsndmxr

    gdmsndmxr New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2020
    Location:
    Toronto
    Hi there,
    We just got a new dishwasher from Bosch. Our old washer used what looks like a 3/4" to 3/4" elbow washing machine line. I have bought a new line to install with the dishwasher. Is it okay to use this line or should I remove and replace the old compression shut off valve with a new 1/2" to 3/8" valve so I can use a "proper" dishwasher supply line.
    I've never removed an shut off valve but do have the new valve and copper pipe cutter. I have read that the copper needs to be deburred after cutting but would using sandpaper be ok? The space is quite tight and I'm unsure if a deburring tool will fit. See image.

    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2020
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    You can cut and install a new compression stop there. It's reduced down anyway at that point, any turbulence isn't going to be noticed.
     
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  4. gdmsndmxr

    gdmsndmxr New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2020
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thank you so much.
     
  5. gdmsndmxr

    gdmsndmxr New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2020
    Location:
    Toronto
    I've been reading that I should use Pipe Dope on the compression nut, or threads. Is this necessary? I was hoping not to need to head to the hardware store again. :)
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Pipe dope or silicone grease lubricates so that you don't need as much torque. I suspect the dope might even have some sealing properties. It can be hard to get enough torque on compression fittings with short wrenches. Liquid ish detergent might serves as a substitute. Just run some water through it before drinking the water
     
  7. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Orlando, Florida
    Copper to brass compression ring, compression nut and all brass stop valves do not need pipe dope or silicone. Usually it is not recommended. When the stop valve is chromed, the threads are sometimes rough and do not make for a snug fit. When you do use pipe dope on domestic water lines, only the smallest amount on the male thread so it does not contact the water. If you do see water after an assembly, it usually barely a drip. If you wait a day minerals in the water will seal it up. One trick on connecting a compression fitting, besure you keep constant pressure by pushing the copper pipe into the valve until the compression ring has started to compress. When you do enough of them you'll know when the ring starts to compress.
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    IMO, if you see water after assembly, give the nut another 1/8 turn if you can.

    One thing that may go without saying, but I want to say it, is to use two wrenches. If the access is awkward, it can be hard to get enough torque.

    Did you ever tighten the nut too tight, to where it caused a problem? When I put on a compression fitting that leaked, I had been worried about crushing the 3/8 OD copper pipe. I now think that should not have been a worry with my short wrenches. I took things apart, and checked pipe. No distortion. Redoing with new pipe, I put Rectorseal #5 on the olive/ferrule and on the threads. And applied more torque. Let it sit for a bit, and gave it another 1/16 or so turn. No leak. Just pipe dope, or just more torque might have each been sufficient, but I wanted both.
     
    GReynolds929 likes this.
  9. gdmsndmxr

    gdmsndmxr New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2020
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thank you all for your help. I did not apply any pipe dope and did have a small leak at first. This was only after tightening just past 1/4 turn. So I figured it needed to be tighter. Off goes the water and I tightened it to almost a half turn from finger tight. No more leaks and valve works great.
     
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