I'm replumbing the laundry room and need to buy some fittings before I start. I have an Oatey single lever washing machine valve in a box mounted in the wall. Currently has CPVC plumbed to it, will be replacing with PEX. I'm sure the valve has threads for the input side. Are these valves straight threads or tapered pipe? What fitting would be needed to connect the valve to PEX? I have to move the washer and pull the wall panel to get to the valve and I want to have materials on hand before I start.
Washing Machine Shutoff question
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Breplum
Licensed plumbing contractor
Good question.
The threads on the washing machine valves are actually straight threads (non-tapered). That is how the 1/2" mounting nuts spin on so easily.
We normally buy WM box sets to accommodate the specific piping. Exp. PEX, or crimp pex, or copper sweat.
Have I seen boxes where they cram FIP adapters on: YES. Is it proper: Hell no. Will it leak: often.
your valve in question likely is designed for sweat copper and you could thoroughly clean the I.D. and sweat adapters on or update the valve.
The threads on the washing machine valves are actually straight threads (non-tapered). That is how the 1/2" mounting nuts spin on so easily.
We normally buy WM box sets to accommodate the specific piping. Exp. PEX, or crimp pex, or copper sweat.
Have I seen boxes where they cram FIP adapters on: YES. Is it proper: Hell no. Will it leak: often.
your valve in question likely is designed for sweat copper and you could thoroughly clean the I.D. and sweat adapters on or update the valve.
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
all the ones I saw were straight thread so Ive only used sweat but I assume you would need a adapter that had a female straight thread with a washer inside dont know if they make that in pex.? you could purchase new bibs with pex barbs or complete new box we are supposed to put hammer arestors on if you dont have them now
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There is no way I would try to thread a pressure fitting onto straight threads and bury it in the wall.
Purchase a new box with the type of connection you want to use, either crimp pex or expansion pex depending on which system you're going to install.
Don't risk a leak inside the wall from jenky straight threads..
Purchase a new box with the type of connection you want to use, either crimp pex or expansion pex depending on which system you're going to install.
Don't risk a leak inside the wall from jenky straight threads..
OK, thanks for the replies. I figured it had to be straight threads with nuts like a faucet to retain it. I would say the cpvc fittings on it are the type with washers in them. I know they make PEX fittings with rubber seals in them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-...-x-Female-Swivel-Adapter-APXFB1212S/301541047
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I wouldnt either and for the price a new box with arrestors might be worth it the old box with a sweat fitting might save 5 or 10 bucks wouldnt be hokey but just might be worth replacing box I probebly would go new and not strain the brain too much on saving a few bucks unless its very new
Looking at replacement valves and I came across these instruction for Sharkbite brand valves.
These are the valves and it would seem they are straight MIP yet they say to use tape or dope.
I use crimp and cinch for my PEX connections.
No problem with replacing the valves, it's worth it to only do it once. What brand valves do you recommend?
These are the valves and it would seem they are straight MIP yet they say to use tape or dope.
I use crimp and cinch for my PEX connections.
No problem with replacing the valves, it's worth it to only do it once. What brand valves do you recommend?
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Tuttles Revenge
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Some instructions that come with a product are just copy and paste generic instructions which are seemingly written by children. I'm sure every plumber here worth their salt has threaded tapered threads onto straight threads.. It can be done, but when you do it and realize you've only got 2 threads deep before it bottoms out.. The word for it today is Cringe.
We use Sioux Chief Ox Box for all of our clothes washer boxes. The water box and the drain box are separate so placement is much more versatile. They can be side by side next to a stud or a stud in between them, or even stacked vertically or even spaced out on each side of the machines.
I believe the X suffix is the crimp style connection you're using.
696-G2313XF Link to Ferguson
We use Sioux Chief Ox Box for all of our clothes washer boxes. The water box and the drain box are separate so placement is much more versatile. They can be side by side next to a stud or a stud in between them, or even stacked vertically or even spaced out on each side of the machines.
I believe the X suffix is the crimp style connection you're using.
696-G2313XF Link to Ferguson
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I havent used the Otter box I like the concept and convieniance , versatility can make for a cleanner and easier installation in many cases .
technically gotta have those hammer arrestors some where in the installation
technically gotta have those hammer arrestors some where in the installation
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I initially linked to the version without the hammer arrestors, but I thought I fixed the links for the version with. That is the only ones we buy and install.
I'll look into the valves. I'm not changing the box if I can help it. So you use the hammer arrestors that are built on the valve? I've never had any hammer arrestors on this valve I have now and it's been on there for a long time.
I don't have a local plumbing supply, only 2 lumber yards near me for the basics. Been dependent on Lowes and Amazon for supplies. Been to the nearest Furgeson and they aren't the sharpest and not very helpful at all.
I don't have a local plumbing supply, only 2 lumber yards near me for the basics. Been dependent on Lowes and Amazon for supplies. Been to the nearest Furgeson and they aren't the sharpest and not very helpful at all.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
its hit or miss even at a major supplier like ferguson. We are supposed to use arrestors Im not that impressed on thier importance but put them on when Im supposed to . it can help and its our required standard I cant re -write the code book. it does cost a bit more though
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I almost punched some jackass at the ferguson desk a couple months ago. Asked him for a box flange escutcheon. He asked me for the product number and when I obviously didn't know that he told me to go find it myself.
It ended up being on the shelf right in front of him.
Their websites will have pricing all over the place too. I have a PRO account and I will look at pricing while I'm logged out and when I log in the pricing increases on some items.
It ended up being on the shelf right in front of him.
Their websites will have pricing all over the place too. I have a PRO account and I will look at pricing while I'm logged out and when I log in the pricing increases on some items.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I called to ask them about a specific item a 1/2 inch sweat loose key hose bib , it must have took me 5 attempts to explain what loose key meant , i told him removeable handle etc. explained over and over the guy couldnt understand. it was only thing I needed and a small branch wanted to save a trip if they didnt have it.
I have a pro account too the prices are so damn high I never trust going on line price
I have a pro account too the prices are so damn high I never trust going on line price
Great to see every trade has the same problems getting parts and materials! I have worked for decades as an auto tech and it has become a total joke trying to purchase parts. The online catalog at a place like Rock Auto is so much better than standing in front of someone that asks you the same question over and over and has no clue what you're trying to buy, and doesn't care if you buy or not. I am fortunate to have an electrical supply nearby with a great owner that is extremely knowledgeable. Unfortunately, not so much with plumbing. No inspections here and codes mean little so asking local plumbers doesn't get you the right answer, just how they do it.
After doing some research it looks like plumbing also has the problem of Chinese parts. I found Eastman valves but they all state country of origin as China. So far the only USA brand I've found are Sharkbite brand with PEX crimp style barbs with 1/4 turn valves and no arrestors.
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I believe Sioux Chief manufactures in the US still.
www.siouxchief.com
Sioux Chief Manufacturing | About Us | American Manufacturers
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I cant say for sure but I think a lot of that eastman stuff is crappy , Siox chief I think is decent, I suppose you get right down to it an IPS threaded quality hose bibs probebly better than Oatey or Sioux chief and way easier to change . I still dont mind exposed hose bibs a small box just for the waste is good enough . that said I allways rough in with a box its just the way people plumb now a days and I go with the flow I think people either in the trade or not think its hokey to stub out with valves so Its the only way we do it now
If the washer was in a basement, it wouldn't be a big deal. Washer is in a laundry area off of kitchen and pipes are in wall. I like single lever as my wife shuts the water when she's done with the wash. Don't want the horror of the broken hose when no one is home.
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