Washing Machine S-Trap, help

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Milham

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Hello,

My wife and I recently bought a house, built in the late 50s in Michigan, and every so often we would smell sewer gas. After taking a look around I was able to narrow it down to this mess in my basement.

My washing machine is vented with a S-Trap. To the left and slightly upslope, on the horizontal PVC, is a sink with an AAV (picture 3). And to the right is the last connection down the sewer drain.

Can i vent this with an AAV like the sink is (drawing option 1), or will I end up with issues?

Thank you for all of your help!
 

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Reach4

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What you propose for the washer box is pretty good, except that you are reducing to 1-1/2 before joining the cast iron and you should not use a santee on its back to carry drainage. How about the washing machine trap output joining the vertical 4 inch white pipe ( I hope it is pvc-but I suspect it may be case iron painted white) on the right-hand side of the 20200907_165959.jpg photo.

Show a photo of where the 1.5 inch pvc elbow joins the cast iron. Maybe that can be increased to 2 inch. If the wye into the wall has a 2 inch hub, that would be good.

The laundry sink is not properly vented correctly now either. It needs to be vented before joining the waste coming in from the left. Take a look at the Rectorseal 97402 Magic Trap with the Rectorseal 97400 AAV. It could add the vent you need for the laundry sink.

https://rectorseal.com/product/magic-trap/
 
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Milham

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Hello,

Thank you for responding so quickly. Unfortunately you're correct, the 4 inch is cast iron.

I have attached a closer photo of where the pvc attaches to the cast iron. It appears just to be a threaded 1.5 inch pvc fitting into the cast iron elbow.

Would it be acceptable to do a 2 to 1.5 threaded reducer where it meets the cast iron? From the new drawing attached?
 

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Terry

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The vent on the washer does not help the trap for the sink. The sink needs it's own venting, which could be done by venting and then above the box tie the two vents together and then using the single AAV.

You could also cut the 3" line and add a wye there to get a bigger 2" line for the washer.

washer_rough_b.jpg
 

Milham

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Hi Terry, thank you. For the sink I'll probably go with the magic trap and its own aav. For the washer then would the above work? (from the drawing attached)
 

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Reach4

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img_7.jpg

If that wye has a 2 inch hub, and the 1.5 inch pipe is leaded in, you could use that to feed a 2 inch PVC path into the wye.
 
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Milham

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It appears to be: wye - > threaded pipe - > elbow - > PVC. The outside diameter of the threaded cast iron coupler between the wye and elbow is just shy of 2 inches.
 

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Reach4

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If you scrape or sand the paint away between the arrows, I suspect you will find a leaded joint. If that is the case, you could cut out the 1.5 inch stuff, the lead and the oakum, and install 2 inch PVC using a Fernco Donut.
 

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Milham

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Hello,

Here's what I found. What are your thoughts, can you tell from the attached photo? How would I go about removing? Would I try to unscrew it, or take a sawzall to the treaded coupler or something? Sorry, not sure I understood completely.

One other thought, from what I've seen on past houses. If the utility basin sink was vented with the magic trap and aav, could I just drain into it from washer line?
 

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GoingQuiet

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Someone took a p-trap and used it to make something different, that isn’t truly even a proper S trap. The picture Terry showed above is a good example of how it should be.
Problem with the setup you have is that the trap weir isn’t in the right spot in relation to the 180 degree portion on the trap, and even if that was right... you also should have 3” minimum of horizontal pipe run out of the trap weir before changing direction or else the trap could siphon itself dry.
 
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