Want to increase water pressure.

[BIGBREW]

Good afternoon Gentlemen. I’m looking to boost my water pressure a little bit. My current set up is as follows.

140ft well runs in 1” to the pressure tank. Switch is set to 40/60. 3/4 comes out of the pressure tank goes through a mixer for a small shot of peroxide, through my air injection tank, softener, uv light them to the main house supply.

My water treatment system is in the basement on the opposite side of the master bedroom where my walk in shower is with two heads.

House is 60’ long. 3/4” runs from my water treatment system, all the way to the far end of the house where the master is, 1/2” water lines T off the 3/4” for faucets, toilets etc where necessary.

My pressure in the bathroom isn’t horrible, I can run both shower heads currently. I would just like a little more pressure, maybe #10 ish lbs on the far end.

I was thinking about installing a boost pump between the softener and UV Light after my treatment system so it’s not running as well during regen cycles in the tanks.

Like I said, gaining 10-20lbs on the far end would be really nice.

I was looking around and saw something like this…

https://a.co/d/axcCZ5S

What would you recommend?

 

[John Gayewski]

Have you measured the shower heads? Hold a bucket under them with a timer and figure out if they are running at full capacity. If they are pressure isn't going to do anything for you. If they aren't running at capacity then a boost could help. The shower head should be a full 2.5 gpm model as a lot of them are not nowadays. Even the 2.5gpm shower heads still need the restrictor removed to get the full 2.5 gpm a lot of the time.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

Under optimal conditions pump boost pressure 6.6 gpm. Amp draw is 1.2 amps. Head pressure 49.2'= 21lbs. Water softener loses 10-15 lbs. Don't think you would happy but buying it through amazon can always send it back.

 

[BIGBREW]

Under optimal conditions pump boost pressure 6.6 gpm. Amp draw is 1.2 amps. Head pressure 49.2'= 21lbs. Water softener loses 10-15 lbs. Don't think you would happy but buying it through amazon can always send it back.

I was going to place after the softener and before the UV light. After the light it goes right to the main line in the house which is 3/4 inch. I figured putting it here I had a little water reserve right behind the pump.

 

[BIGBREW]

Under optimal conditions pump boost pressure 6.6 gpm. Amp draw is 1.2 amps. Head pressure 49.2'= 21lbs. Water softener loses 10-15 lbs. Don't think you would happy but buying it through amazon can always send it back.

I was going to place after the softener and before the UV light. After the light it goes right to the main line in the house which is 3/4 inch.

 

[Fitter30]

I was going to place after the softener and before the UV light. After the light it goes right to the main line in the house which is 3/4 inch.

If the pressure is dropped before the pump it's still a drop which the pump has to over come.

 

[BIGBREW]

Under optimal conditions pump boost pressure 6.6 gpm. Amp draw is 1.2 amps. Head pressure 49.2'= 21lbs. Water softener loses 10-15 lbs. Don't think you would happy but buying it through amazon can always send it back.

If the pressure is dropped before the pump it's still a drop which the pump has to over come.

Might grab one and pop it in. Like you said I can return it. All pex. Easy peasy.

 

[Bannerman]

I was thinking about installing a boost pump between the softener and UV Light after my treatment system

Have you attempted to simply increase your existing pump's pressure switch setting to 50/70 or even 60/80 psi? In adjusting the pressure range, the pressure tank air pre-charge pressure, should also be adjusted to 2 psi lower than the cut-in pressure (ie: 48 psi for 50/70 or 58 psi for 60/80).

Regardless of which pressure switch setting is utilized, suggest upgrading your system with a Cycle Stop Valve, such as the PK1A Pside-Kick kit shown here.

Not only will a CSV prevent your well pump from repeatedly cycling Off/On while more than 1 gpm is flowing to fixtures, but the CSV will also supply constant pressure to fixtures once the pump is running.

Your current 40/60 psi pressure range, will result in the pressure to your fixtures, either constantly dropping from 60 to 40 psi before the pump becomes activated, or climbing from 40 to 60 psi once the pump is running.

By equipping the system with a CSV, once the pump is activated at 40 psi, the CSV will permit the downstream system pressure to climb to 50 psi or somewhat higher depending on the pressure tank capacity. The 50 psi will remain constant regardless of whether 1 fixture, or multiple are flowing at the same time.

Since a CSV will prevent the pump from cycling, a much smaller pressure tank maybe utilized. For most single residence applications, a 4.5 gallon pressure tank will not only consume significantly less space and permit it to be hung on the wall, only about 1-gallon of water consumption will cause the pressure to drop from 60 to 40 psi, which will then result in all continued flow to remain at 50 psi constant for the entire remaining time water is being consumed.

If using a 50/70 pressure range, the CSV will typically be calibrated to deliver 60 psi continuous, or 70 psi continuous with 60/80 pressure switch settings.