Wall mount toilet rough in

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Mark Biggs

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Replacing 1960's pink toilet as the tank has a hairline crack. Assuming rough in can be measured off of the mounting bolts I get a little over 5.25 inch from the floor to center of bottom 2 mounting bolts. I want to get a Gerber Maxwell toilet which says 4" rough in. Assuming this will work? Just has to be *AT LEAST* 4 inches off floor to clear??

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Mark

gerber-20-021-wall-hung-03.jpg
 
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Breplum

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check out the pdf from Gerber https://gerber-gh.s3.amazonaws.com/gerberdocs/G0020021_SS.pdf
what you state looks to be correct.
check the upper bolt spread as well.
Where we run in to a lot of trouble, if the bolts are good, comes from each mfr using slightly different depths for the gasket.
Everything from the basic Zurn neo-seal to felt impregnated special wall mount wax are in the arsenal, but fine tuning installation usually requires screwing around adjusting depth on the wall fixture. This is fine if it is a plastic threaded collar, but a real pita if it is a rusted in place cast iron collar. In that case: good luck. so easy to be a leak source.

spec_gerber_wall_hung.jpg
 

Mark Biggs

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check out the pdf from Gerber
what you state looks to be correct.
check the upper bolt spread as well.
Where we run in to a lot of trouble, if the bolts are good, comes from each mfr using slightly different depths for the gasket.
Everything from the basic Zurn neo-seal to felt impregnated special wall mount wax are in the arsenal, but fine tuning installation usually requires screwing around adjusting depth on the wall fixture. This is fine if it is a plastic threaded collar, but a real pita if it is a rusted in place cast iron collar. In that case: good luck. so easy to be a leak source.
So you're saying adjust the depths of the 4 bolts to accommodate my seal? Without taking the toilet off, I am assuming the collar (The 4 inch pipe?) is cast iron. I am using a reinforced wax ring from Harvey. Bolt spread is 9 inches horizontally and 7.5 inches vertically.
 
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Mark Biggs

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Reading through some posts I see Terry likes his backing nuts flush with the wall with the washer setting on top of that. Bolts protruding about 2.125" out of wall. Should work? Yes/no?
 

Terry

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gerber_20_021_bowl_side.jpg


The nuts are 5/8" at the hardware store. I like to have extra nuts and washers on hand for the installation. The flange at the wall may be thinner that your existing bowl, so sometimes the old nuts don't thread on all the way. That's where the extra washers and the nuts without the cap on the end come in handy. I've been using the neoprene seals. I have also used a reinforced for wall mount before too.


maxwell_wh_03.jpg


A set of these on hand can be nice too.

https://www.zoro.com/zurn-carrier-hardware-58-in-size-wall-z5610-nut-ext-kit/i/G3894031/

zurn-wall-hung-nut-kit.jpg
 
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Mark Biggs

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Old nuts will not be used as the thread on one of the acorn nuts has been stripped. Will be using regular nuts. What are the extra washers for? Just to shim out so acorn nuts can fit flush? Your backing nuts are adjustable to push washer inout. You would only need the vinyl washer and the metal washer on the bathroom side of the toilet.
 
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Mark Biggs

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My chief concern was adjusting the carrier bolts to accommodate the seal. Am I correct in my aforementioned post (post #4)?
 

Terry

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If you are using regular nuts without caps, then no extra washers would be needed. Extra washers only if the nut won't thread up all the way.
 

Mark Biggs

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Wonder why you showed me those nuts? Those are HANDY! Say I only have 1 thread hanging out the flange. Might just get those. Do you know how thick flange is on the Gerbers?

index.php
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Back to the Barrel and how it relates to the Seal as Breplumb was mentioning. I learned the hard way. I had set my barrels to the specification of a toilet then the specified toilet changed. I didn't adjust my drain barrel and it crushed through the back of my toilet.

So adjusting the backing nut/washer combo is important if you can't adjust your probably rusted in place drain barrel.

Just something to double/triple check.
 

Mark Biggs

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Back to the Barrel and how it relates to the Seal as Breplumb was mentioning. I learned the hard way. I had set my barrels to the specification of a toilet then the specified toilet changed. I didn't adjust my drain barrel and it crushed through the back of my toilet.

So adjusting the backing nut/washer combo is important if you can't adjust your probably rusted in place drain barrel.

Just something to double/triple check.
Say drain barrel is rusted in place and absolutely cannot move it if I need to. How do I figure out how far backing nuts need to be in relation to the drain barrel? Is there any hard and fast way of doing it?
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Yep.. The plane of the back of the toilet is where the nut/washer combo at the wall will be. The gasket of the toilet is a recess in that plane. The barrel needs to slightly compress the gasket in that recess. Usually the manufacturer of the toilet will tell you how much compression or how far into that recess the barrel should be. Then the nut/washers are set according to that.

50948_2.jpg
 
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Mark Biggs

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Yep.. The plane of the back of the toilet is where the nut/washer combo at the wall will be. The gasket of the toilet is a recess in that plane. The barrel needs to slightly compress the gasket in that recess. Usually the manufacturer of the toilet will tell you how much compression or how far into that recess the barrel should be. Then the nut/washers are set according to that.

50948_2.jpg
Gerber mentions no dimension for the recess of the drain barrel nor the location of the backing nuts/washers in the installation instructions. Hm..
 

Terry

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Here are the instructions for the Zurn seal.
A = depth of recess in closet bowl
X = distance closet bowl is to be located from finished wall.
B = distance coupling should extend in front of finished wall.
Thus A + X - 1/2" = B

neoprene-instructions.jpg
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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I've never installed a wall hung fixture with wax so I couldn't give any advice for that, but I suspect that the dimensions would be the same since the gap is filled with either neoprene or wax that gets compressed between the 2 surfaces.
 
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