Crankshaft
New Member
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
I'm new to the board, been doing a lot of reading, now I need to ask your opinion. This could be a novel so I'll avoid that by keeping this as direct as possible.
I had an addition added onto my house. We just finished a few weeks ago. The additon included a new laundry room, half bathroom, master bedroom, master closet and master bathroom. The original house and the addition are on a slab.
We specified the fixtures we wanted for the bathroom in the contract but the builder or his plumber never inspected the existing plumbing and hot water tank to see if it would meet the requirements of the fixtures we wanted.
Plumber tied the new additions plumbing into the hot and cold connections of an existing sink. He used ball valves and copper lines. The lines from the sink go through a wall, behind the stairs, down another wall and into a manifold in the floor. None of these pipes are accessible now, all are hidden by drywall (including the manifold).
The pipe run from the manifold to the shower is about 20 to 25 feet. The sinks are a bit closer, the tub about the same distance as the sink. The laundry tub is closest to the manifold. The half bath is farther away but on a different circuit (it's hooked to the lines from an old bathroom that was removed).
At our kitchen sink we can get the hot water temp up to 120 degrees. At the sink at which the addition is hooked up we can get 120 degrees, the laundry tub maxes out at 113 degrees, the master bath sinks top out at 106 to 108 degrees and the shower won't go above 102 degrees.
The weird part is that we can get 120 degrees for a short while at the tub.
Taking a luke warm shower is getting old and no fun.
We do have a 40 gallon hot water tank which will be replaced by a 75 gallon tank soon. That is to help with filling up the large master bath whirlpool tub.
None of the hotwater lines in the slab were insulated before concrete was poured. Some have said they should have been, others say no need to.
My builder says it's not his problem. He said we should have known what we needed when we specified the fixtures we did. He won't pay for the bigger tank or offer any other fixes for the lack of hot water.
I have been told to get and install a hot water recirculating pump. Would this and a large hot water tank fix the problem? Is there a bigger problem that's going to bite me later on down the road??
Any thoughts and insights are greatly appreciated. My wife and I are not very happy after all the money we spent and we can't use the tub or take a decent hot shower.
Fred
I had an addition added onto my house. We just finished a few weeks ago. The additon included a new laundry room, half bathroom, master bedroom, master closet and master bathroom. The original house and the addition are on a slab.
We specified the fixtures we wanted for the bathroom in the contract but the builder or his plumber never inspected the existing plumbing and hot water tank to see if it would meet the requirements of the fixtures we wanted.
Plumber tied the new additions plumbing into the hot and cold connections of an existing sink. He used ball valves and copper lines. The lines from the sink go through a wall, behind the stairs, down another wall and into a manifold in the floor. None of these pipes are accessible now, all are hidden by drywall (including the manifold).
The pipe run from the manifold to the shower is about 20 to 25 feet. The sinks are a bit closer, the tub about the same distance as the sink. The laundry tub is closest to the manifold. The half bath is farther away but on a different circuit (it's hooked to the lines from an old bathroom that was removed).
At our kitchen sink we can get the hot water temp up to 120 degrees. At the sink at which the addition is hooked up we can get 120 degrees, the laundry tub maxes out at 113 degrees, the master bath sinks top out at 106 to 108 degrees and the shower won't go above 102 degrees.
The weird part is that we can get 120 degrees for a short while at the tub.
Taking a luke warm shower is getting old and no fun.
We do have a 40 gallon hot water tank which will be replaced by a 75 gallon tank soon. That is to help with filling up the large master bath whirlpool tub.
None of the hotwater lines in the slab were insulated before concrete was poured. Some have said they should have been, others say no need to.
My builder says it's not his problem. He said we should have known what we needed when we specified the fixtures we did. He won't pay for the bigger tank or offer any other fixes for the lack of hot water.
I have been told to get and install a hot water recirculating pump. Would this and a large hot water tank fix the problem? Is there a bigger problem that's going to bite me later on down the road??
Any thoughts and insights are greatly appreciated. My wife and I are not very happy after all the money we spent and we can't use the tub or take a decent hot shower.
Fred