Vent line thru multiple king studs/top plate.

Discussion in 'Illinois Plumbing Code Questions' started by BRycraft, Aug 1, 2018.

  1. BRycraft

    BRycraft New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2018
    Location:
    Bolingbrook, IL.
    I will and because that area at the window corner is actually exposed backsplash and any protruding pipes would look horrible, so running with your original idea, this saves me from going around studs and going thru them, very well thought out idea and I greatly appreciate the time it takes to help people like me.. Can you please explain the transition piece into the sanitary T? is a 90deg elbow the way to go? or.a couple 45 back to back that horizontal tail piece? has to turn into the sanitary T and need to know the best transition, just want the water to be as unobstructed as possible. I know code and Terry says I can use 1 1/2 vent because I have a 2" drain, would it help or be better to use all 2" to feed back to the main vent thats 3" going thru the roof. That total run will be about 26 feet?
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    A 1-1/2" pipe
    B 1-1/2" PVC DWV 45° Elbow
    C 1-1/2" PVC Piece of pipe
    D 1-1/2" PVC DWV 45° Street Elbow (or equiv) instead of street elbow
    E 2" x 1-1/2" x 2" PVC DWV Sanitary Tee.
    F Piece of 2 inch pipe
    G 2" PVC DWV Cleanout Tee w/ Standard Plug

    Notes
    • D could be same as B plus short piece of pipe.
    • E could be 2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" if trap arm is only about 3 ft long. The 2 inch trap arm was to give maximum reach to drain. At least I think that is OK for a bar sink. It would be for a kitchen sink.


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    Last edited: Aug 2, 2018
  3. BRycraft

    BRycraft New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2018
    Location:
    Bolingbrook, IL.
    Thank you so much fo taking the time helping me out.. Awesome.. Bill
     
  4. BRycraft

    BRycraft New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2018
    Location:
    Bolingbrook, IL.
    Quick question does the waste arm from the sink to the Sanitary T have to be a straight shot or can I after it leaves the trap head back towards the wall and curve over towards the T, not a sharp 90 but something gradual so I can get that waste pipe to the back wall. I also understand the bottom of the pipe at the Wier cannot be higher then the top of the pipe at the vent opening? So that pitch would be very gradual over the 3 foot run would it not? I assume its trial and error getting the proper pitch and not setting the trap Wier too high or too low as water wouldn't flow? Would setting the Sanitary T in position and then make the adjustments at the tail piece length be the way to go or mess with both until its right?
    Little off topic but I think is interesting based on some of the previous conversations about doing it right which brought me here in the first place.....
    That electrician I had who set up the hot tub when we moved in who omitted a ground wire, well he also hooked up a 240 electric dryer we had moved with us from Georgia as they only had Gas here so he did both, the hot tub and dryer same day.. I was looking to run a new 240 line for a built in oven figuring maybe I can use the wire he installed as we don't need that outlet anymore.. I found he used Pink and Brown as the 240 and since the conduit couldn't support a 3rd wire he ran a individual wire for ground.. He ran a BLACK wire, I look and see what the hell is a black wire doing at the ground buss bar... sure enough he used black... Talk about a code violation and I never seen it until today... The live among us I guess... this is exactly why I do as much research as I can and ask those who know more then I do and do it myself.

    Thanks Reach4 and the rest of those who took the time to help a stranger and new member to the forum.. I am grateful for all your help...
    I actually read these posts that have nothing to do with what I am doing to acquire knowledge and find it very enlightening.

    Thanks Bill
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Yes, but you were planning to bring the drain line out of the the stud line, weren't you?

    But you can curve, but the curve counts toward the total length.

    Normal pitch is 1/4 inch per ft or 2 degrees if you prefer.

    Yes, you place the sanitary tee in the wall. If you are going to come out of the wall and curve, you would probably do that in regular glued pipe. Then at the end of the regular pipe, you would put a trap adapter. You need to get the slope on that pipe right, because it is glued in place. Then from the trap adapter, you can easily adjust the slope by changing the length of the tailpiece. The pieces have a range of adjustment that you can make without having to cut precisely. So you would cut to try to get the piece near midway in its adjustment range, and you can then go either way to adjust. You adjust the length of the trap arm (you will need an extension probably) to get to where the p-trap needs to go.

    So is that area going to be expose, and that is why you would like to have the santee in the wall? If you bring the santee out, you will have more space for insulation.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2018
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