Vanity Top Too Thick to Mount Sink?

[sanrico]

We are tiling a vanity top and I just drilled the holes for the faucet. The vanity top is 3/4" thick, plus there is 1/2" Hardibacker board. On top of that, there will be thinset and thick tile.

In my first picture, I've placed a tile on the vanity top (with some spacers to simulate the thinset). You can see that altogether, it's just shy of 2".

In the second picture, I'm measuring the threads for the faucet we are installing. You can see it's 2". Ouch!

What do I do to install this sink? Do I need to get under the sink and use a drill to countersink the vanity wood top from underneath? Or is there some sort of extender I need to purchase?

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[NHmaster]

You have to recess the underside of the counter top.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

You can't snug the securing nuts for the faucet on wood,
it will keep compressing.

You will need to cut out the wood below the stone.

Most stone installers don't cut all the way through.
Most leave the wood there, then you can take your hole saw from the top, and drill your pilot in from the top,
Then drop down below and find the pilot hole underneath, and drill the wood out.

Eye protection!

 

[hj]

hole saw

This one does have the hole all the way through. You take one hole saw, the size of the hole, and "duplex" it with the one the size you need. The directions how to do it will come with the hole saw. Then you drill from the underside. The smaller hole saw will center the larger one as you cut into the wood.

 

[sanrico]

I had a feeling I wouldn't find some sort of threaded sleeve/extender.

It's good to know that I can't snug the securing nuts on the wood. I didn't know that. I thought the wood would be a good anchoring point.

I ended up doing the hole saw thing. Thank you all for your help! It is very much appreciated. This forum is a great help.

 

[Terry]

You take one hole saw, the size of the hole, and "duplex" it with the one the size you need. The directions how to do it will come with the hole saw. Then you drill from the underside. The smaller hole saw will center the larger one as you cut into the wood.
hj

hj,
Thanks for that tip.
I could have used that a few times.

​

 

[Export!]

This one does have the hole all the way through. You take one hole saw, the size of the hole, and "duplex" it with the one the size you need. The directions how to do it will come with the hole saw. Then you drill from the underside. The smaller hole saw will center the larger one as you cut into the wood.

That is G.D. genius. I guess I should have read my hole saw instructions at least once over the years.

 

[Doherty Plumbing]

That is a great idea!

 

[hj]

duplexing

And here I thought I was just enlightening a DIY'er. I have been doing it for decades when a hole had to be enlarged.

 

[Esquire]

I think I get what you're saying, and from what I'm picturing it does sound brilliant. I would love to see a picture of it exactly though. I haven't been at this racket long but I know I could have used this method before.

 

[hj]

duplexing

The directions are in the hole saw box, but in effect, you remove the top lock ring on the large arbor and unscrew the retaining nut. Then you screw the larger hole saw onto the top of the arbor, and replace the retainer and locking pins, then screw the small one on the bottom normally.

 

[IrishHandyman]

Ok I will jump on this bandwagon of folks patting you on the back HJ.
How much royalty do I have to pay when I 'borrow' your suggestion? In my line of work I can see other applications this would work like a charm. Thanks.

 

[hj]

kudos

Aw, Shucks folks. I was just trying to help a guy in need. Send me a PM and I will give the address and royalty rates. It is based on a "per hole" usage.