Valley replacement parts for old single handle tub/shower faucet

[Cjccmc]

I watched several uTube videos on the general topic basically seeing cartridge and rotating ball type designs. But Murphy installed one that looks like a weird hybrid in our shower which rarely gets used. It leaks from the handle when water is on, no leaks when off. I took it apart as far as shown in the pics then got afraid of breaking something as I didn't know how it is put together.

Can anybody advise how to proceed with disassembly? Does this look like a type that I can get spare parts for at typical big box? I'd rather have parts ready to go so water shut off time is minimized.

 

[Smooky]

It looks like an old style valley shower valve

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/vashosin.html

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

Pull the rest of the white stuff out. Go to Home Depot and buy a complete Valley cartridge and a Valley, (not Delta), seat/spring kit and repair the faucet.

https://www.danco.com/product/va-1-cartridge-for-valley-single-handle-faucets/

 

[Cjccmc]

Pull the rest of the white stuff out. Go to Home Depot and buy a complete Valley cartridge and a Valley, (not Delta), seat/spring kit and repair the faucet.

Thanks guys. Just to be clear, that entire plastic assembly that the arrow points to is removable and replaceable? Does it just pull out with pliers?

 

[hj]

yes. It would normally have come out when you pulled the "stem" while it was all assembled together.

 

[Cjccmc]

After you guys identified this as a Valley part, I found this reference that describes removal technique. Thanks again for the help.

https://www.thespruce.com/fix-a-valley-shower-leak-2718982

 

[Cjccmc]

I installed the Danco replacement today, less than perfect experience. First, could not get the new cartridge (outer piece) to push in far enough to where the little tab on the left would engage with the slot on the valve body. Eventually just held the flats on the stem in up-down orientation and hoped that tightening the bonnet nut would fully push in the cartridge.

After installing and tightening the bonnet half turn with a wrench (very tight now) the handle stem has about 3/16 in-out play and I have a light drip out the tub spout. That's worse than the problem I was originally trying to fix LOL!

Any ideas on how to get this corrected?

 

[Terry]

You might try some Silicone faucet grease to help slide it in, and with a good light, make sure there is nothing left over preventing the new cartridge from slipping back in.

 

[hj]

Did you replace the rubber seats, springs, and white plastic sleeves. If you do NOT install the cartridge properly, and what you did is NOT a proper installation, there is no way it cannot leak.

 

[Cjccmc]

Thanks for the inputs guys.

I applied the silicone lube and didn't find any obstructions but still can't get the cartridge pushed back far enough to get the tab to stay in the slot. I can shove it in using a lot of force but it springs back out about 1/8".

When I removed the cartridge the seats looked deformed see pic:

I did use all three parts: seat, spring and white sleeve in this order and orientation:

My guess is that maybe the seat, spring, sleeve stack height is too tall and it's not letting the cartridge go far enough in. I pushed them in as far as they go with finger pressure.

Looks like I need another set of new seats now? Any other suggestions?

Thanks again

 

[Smooky]

The springs and rubber washer pushes against the cartridge , that is normal. The bonnet nut will hold the cartridge in place. If the rubber seat washer is damaged it should be replaced. It looks a little rough on the edge.

 

[Cjccmc]

When I installed the cartridge I had the stem in full up (max flow) position which puts the holes on the back plate over the new seats. I think when the bonnet nut pushed the cartridge back the extra 1/8" or so having the seats partially over the open holes caused that step to form in the rubber. Next attempt I'll put the stem in the "off" position so that seats will be against a flat surface when the bonnet pushes it back to the final install position.

I am able to get the drip to stop by playing with the handle position but before my repair it would shut off easily.

 

[Cjccmc]

I installed my second set of seats yesterday and the "off" position is now drip free. That put me in a mood to buy drinks for everybody but since I was the only one home at the time one large glass of wine did nicely

Now that I've had more time to ponder the design and function of the parts I was dealing with, I don't see any way you could install the new cartridge without holding the stem (with pliers) so that the tab and slot discussed above stay aligned. Here's why:

The seats need to apply some pressure to back of the cartridge so there is no leak in the "off" position. But before the bonnet nut is fully installed and tightened to push the cartridge against the seats, the cartridge will not be in far enough when you first start to tighten the nut. When installing the bonnet it contacts the cartridge and the turning motion also turns the cartridge and rotates the tab away from the slot that it needs to nest into. That's why I had to hold the stem when turning the bonnet nut otherwise the plastic cartridge tab would have rotated away from the slot and prevented a proper final install.

The only way I can imagine that you don't have to hold the stem to keep the cartridge from spinning out of position is if:

1) the slot in the valve body is deeper than the tab thickness by enough so that the tab can be in the slot at the starting depth and then go in deeper as the bonnet forces it back. On mine the slot was only as deep as the tab thickness.

or

2) the friction from the outer cartridge Oring is able to hold the cartridge against the seats at the final install position without any help from the bonnet. In my case I lubed the Oring and there was not much friction.

I'm probably missing something and would like to hear how others see this.

 

[TomTom77]

I wanted to write a follow-up to this very helpful Q&A. Had the exact same cartridge in an older mid '1980's construction. The Valley part show above plus the extra seat, spring and white sleeve kit are needed for repair (available from the big box stores). As mentioned above, make sure to put the cartridge handle in the "down" position. You will need to use a screwdriver or something with a little reach to push in the cartridge while tightening the bonnet nut. It's not terribly difficult and I understand why now after doing the install. The cartridge won't sit flush due to the spring tension unless you hold it down while tightening the nut. Leak solved! Thank you!

 

[99 ret]

I am in the same boat as “ cjccmc “. After much searching I walked into Central Arizona Supply, showed the counter guy a picture of my shower faucet and before I could ask him what brand it was, he said “ that’s a Valley “. Told him what I needed and he goes to the shelves, comes back with complete rebuild kit, new bonnet and a brass lever handle to replace the acrylic knob. Fantastic!! The rest of my problem is, getting the old bonnet to unscrew. I tried my 12” channel locks with a rubber pad on the jaws and I couldn’t budge it. Now that I have a replacement, I’m not worried about scaring the old one, but I don’t want to damage the valve body or the pipes. Anyone have a better idea?

 

[Terry]

my problem is, getting the old bonnet to unscrew. I tried my 12” channel locks with a rubber pad on the jaws and I couldn’t budge it.

Removing a bonnet without twisting the valve in the wall can be tricky.
I would spray it with oil, let that soak a bit, tap with pliers around the bonnet and then carefully see if it moves. You can't press hard on the pliers or you end up deforming the bonnet into a slightly egg shape and then it's really hard to get off.
I have also used heat from my torch to help loosen it.
Others, if they have the new bonnet in hand, will saw a cut in them. I have not resorted to that yet.

 

[Maria O.]

I’m now also in the same boat. We recently bought an older model mobile home and decided to update the look of our shower. Of course, having never done any type of plumbing before, the trim kit I bought does not fit. I got as far as being able to pull out the little handle with the ball and watching tutorials until realizing I didn’t have the regular cartridge type and it wasn’t gonna work out in my favor. So my question is, can I just pull out the whole white assembly part mentioned above and replace it with something that will fit my trim? If so, what/which type should I get? If not, what do you suggest?

I’ve attached a photo of my current valve with some parts still attached. And here is the trim I recently bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAT878S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I0ZyEbHV9M6ZK

 

[Terry]

The Moen Posi-Temp trim with fit Moen.
You have Valley though, so pick up Valley parts. It's not a Ford or a Chevy. It's Valley.
Fer Sure, Fer sure, She's a Valley Girl. Like OMG, I am so sure.

 

[TimHuang]

Hey guys, I'm relatively new here. We got the same Valley faucet as shown in previous posts and we don't really like the design. The main issue is that it's very hard to adjust to the desired water temperature; a small movement would result in a great change in water temperature. Sometimes, it would take gallons of water before we find the right temperature. I wonder if there is any way to improve the performance. (I actually just replaced the cartridge with help of previous posts). If I want to change to a new version or another brand, do I need to replace the whole thing, including the valve?

Thanks
Tim

 

[Steelersgirl]

Thanks for the inputs guys.

I applied the silicone lube and didn't find any obstructions but still can't get the cartridge pushed back far enough to get the tab to stay in the slot. I can shove it in using a lot of force but it springs back out about 1/8".

When I removed the cartridge the seats looked deformed see pic:

View attachment 40898

I did use all three parts: seat, spring and white sleeve in this order and orientation:

View attachment 40899

My guess is that maybe the seat, spring, sleeve stack height is too tall and it's not letting the cartridge go far enough in. I pushed them in as far as they go with finger pressure.

Looks like I need another set of new seats now? Any other suggestions?

Thanks again

When I removed the old seats & springs there weren’t any white pieces. I installed new seats & springs but still leaking from the shower head. Is there a secret to holding the cartridge in place before tightening the bolt? Does the handles need to be in the off position?