Utica boiler leaky valve #2

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4uzindian

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this is regarding my posts from 10-13-2013 to 11-05-2013.the drip came back.it is on the threaded part of valve. I tightened it slightly twice before .I'm afraid if I tighten any more it might break. any way I'll probably replace it. there's two incoming lines .do i have to drain and purge both when I install new valve. or just the one with the new valve.
 

Dana

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If it's just the packing under the nut that is failing, it's possible to replace the packing.

Google-up yourself a video primer on how to do re-pack a dripping valve stem (a plumbing-101 type of task.)
 

4uzindian

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thanks for your reply. I'll google this next. but my main question is do i have to purge both return lines if I decide to put in new valve ?the stem is not leaking. what's leaking is the big screw thread that goes into the fitting that's soldered on the pipes.
 
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Dana

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Any time you open up the system ANYWHERE on the system, you have to purge the air that was introduced. And since that air does move, it's not usually as simple as just purging one zone or one section.

Have you found the vents & bleeder valves on your system yet?

Re-packing the valve stem doesn't usually require swapping out the valve, so definitely start there first. You may get wet from the dribbles & sprays if the system is still pressurized when you do it, but the valve stem doesn't come flying of when you back the packing nut completely out:

FH10APR_STEMSE_01.JPG
 

4uzindian

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thanks' so much for your reply. looking at this picture you displayed. go down to where the valve assembly screws into the t fitting .this is what's leaking. it is one and a half inch diameter. the valve stem is not leaking .stop showing me valve stem fixes..so what you're saying is i would have to purge both incoming lines if and when I decide to put in a new valve ?
 
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Dana

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You'll have to de-pressurize the system first, but you can probably just back that out, clean up the threads, and re-seal it using teflon tape., but if you're handy with a torch & solder simply replacing it (and possibly the drain valve above it) doesn't look like a major project.

I's also possible that tightening the packing nut (the smaller part where the shaft comes out) will stop the leak. Depends on exactly where the seepage is occuring internally in the valve assembly.
 

4uzindian

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i'm confused.you said depressureize system? you said back it out which means the threaded part of valve.can i back this out without depressureizing and apply teflon ?i tighted the valve stem nut a little .tommorw i'll post on how much water leaked.
 

Dana

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The part where you indicated it's leaking is not the packing nut, it's the part with the internal threading that the valve stem used move the gate up & down:

Unscrewing the packing nut you'll get spritzed on, but if you unscrew the part connected to the main valve body with the pressure on it'll take the guts of the valve with it and give you a ~8-10 gpm gusher-shower, a real hosing-down!
 
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4uzindian

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thanks so much fo the valve illustration.i did lossen the the part to the main valve body just a little yesterday and i indeed get a good soaking. then . as i said before i was worried if i tighted it any more it might break. so i did go ahead and tighten even more last night. so far since then it has not leaked one drop of water. i'm hoping this is fixed . i'm going to post tommorow to let you know the conddition of system. again thanks so much for your help.
 

4uzindian

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back again. there is no water dripping since i tighted valve body.thanks again for info. so as of now i'm going to close this post .if something comes up i' ll repost again.
 
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