upgrading my 1 cubic foot anion tannin filter

[Runekey_69]

hi
i currently have 1 cubic foot of anion resin beads in my tannin filter after my water softener. it lasts about 100 gallons before i start to get yellow again.

And I recently lost water pressure about four times before i solved my pump problem.. causing red foamy discharge when the water pressure returned, so I know I damage the resin but by how much I don’t know.. this resin is only 3 months old.

I suppose I should’ve opened up the intake valves partially Then Put it in to backwash to get the air out before fully opening the bypass

i think i was getting about 250 gallons before yellowing before the damage. but i still got yellow when i went above 3.1 gpm soooo

I would like to increase my capacity by another cubic foot for two total cubic feet But I don’t know if I should replace the old resin or just add another foot with the old resin.

maybe I should make it 3 ft.³ and just add 2 ft.³ to the one old cubic foot that I have.

Does type one or type two resin matter too much can I mix them?

Here is a picture of my Water before treatment. Does this look about right to be getting 100 gallons out of a cube foot?

 

[Bannerman]

And I recently lost water pressure about four times before i solved my pump problem..

Describe the problem, and what you did to re-solve it.

Is there iron/manganese in your well water? If there is significant iron/manganese which the softener is not completely removing, the iron/mang that leaks through the softener, can foul the anion resin, thereby reducing its effectiveness.

What control valve is the anion system equipped with?
What is the Capacity and Salt setting currently programmed?
What is the current Backwash flow rate, and how long is the Backwash cycle?

Assuming the softener and Anion filter share the same brine tank, what is the softener's Capacity setting, and what amount of water is programmed to enter the brine tank at the end of the softener's regeneration cycle?

still got yellow when i went above 3.1 gpm soooo

Anion resin supports a significantly lower effective flow rate compared to Cation (water softener) resin. Anion resin has a recommended effective service flow rate of 1-5 GPM per square foot of tank cross section, vs 3-20 GPM/ft2 for softening resin.

As I anticipate your 1 ft3 anion resin is installed within a 9" diameter media tank, 1-5 GPM/ft2 will equal 0.5 - 2.2 GPM service flow to your home's fixtures. When the recommended service flow rate is exceeded, leakage will be likely and should be expected.

Increasing the quantity of anion resin to 1.5 ft3 within a 10" tank, will support an increased effective flow rate of 0.6-2.7 GPM, or 0.8-3.9 GPM for 2 ft3 resin within a 12" diameter tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Runekey_69]

i found a hole in my electrical running to my pump so i replaced it. no more issue. i have a proper softener filter before and my water isnt too rich with the stuff. its a softener with carbon midplate

here is the control valve pic.. those are 1 inch pvc..
the capacity is currently 9000 grain/ gallons auto/fill 15lbs/450gallons regenerating every 2 days
backwash flow rate is unknown.. i dont think its an issue i suppose i can check tonight when it does it. back wash is 8 mins

and they do not share a brine tank.

but yes.. showering is fine, it runs at 3.1 gpm but laundry fills at over 5gpm and always leaves me having to clear the pipes afterwards..

 

[Bannerman]

i have a proper softener filter before and my water isnt too rich with the stuff. its a softener with carbon midplate

"Rich with" what "stuff"?

A softener is not a filter. With carbon sharing the media tank, the softener's hardness removal capacity will be less than when the softener contains the full amount of softening resin. Carbon will not remove hardness nor will it remove ferrous iron or manganese.

What is the size of the softener's media tank, and what are the current softener settings? If the programmed Capacity is too high, or the hardness setting too low, or if the quantity of salt for regeneration is insufficient, then the regenerated capacity is likely to become exhausted before the next regeneration cycle is to occur. If there is iron and/or manganese present in your raw well water, then there will be greater potential for the Anion resin to be exposed to and fouled by hard water, iron &/or manganese.

showering is fine, it runs at 3.1 gpm but laundry fills at over 5gpm and always leaves me having to clear the pipes afterwards.

By this statement, it seems most likely, the current quantity of Anion resin is simply insufficient for the flow rate frequently needed.

 

[Runekey_69]

prolly

 

[Runekey_69]

will a 65x14 media tank fit 3 cubic feet of anion properly? and is it possible to slightly under fill a tank without adverse effect?

 

[Bannerman]

14X65 is the appropriate tank size for 3ft3 media.

Not clear on what you mean by 'underfill'.

Backwashing media tanks are typically filled to approx 2/3 of the tank height. The remaining 1/3 empty space above the media (freeboard space) is required to provide sufficient space to allow the media to lift and expand, and to circulate (reclassify) during the Backwash cycle.

A 14X65 tank is of sufficient size to allow 30 lbs bedding gravel + 3ft3 media, while continuing to provide the required freeboard space.

If you mean installing 2.5ft3 or less media within a 14X65 tank, then there be less distance between the top of the media to the bottom, which will reduce the contact time for the water with the media, which will usually reduce the effectiveness of how well the filter will perform. To ensure optimal performance, always utilize the appropriate size tank for the quantity of media to be installed.

 

[Runekey_69]

lol i had no idea about bedding gravel.. the gravel doesnt move during regenerations?

 

[Bannerman]

Gravel is usually heavier than the media, so the gravel will remain at the bottom below the media, including during the backwash cycle.

Gravel provides two main benefits:
1) it will surround the bottom screen, so if the screen becomes compromised, the media will be less likely to escape into the home's plumbing system.
2) because water always follows the path of least resistance, without gravel, water flow through compacted media, will typically follow a cone shaped path, with the wide end of the cone at the top where the water enters above the media, with the path progressively narrowing to a point at the bottom center where the bottom screen is located since that will be the point of lowest pressure. This then will reduce the amount of media utilized for service flow, thereby over utilizing and prematurely exhausting the capacity of the media within that cone area. Because water will flow more easily through the spaces between gravel particles compared to compacted media, gravel under-bedding will expand the low pressure zone across a greater portion of the bottom of the tank, thereby expanding the flow path across a greater amount of media, permitting more of the media capacity to be utilized.

An alternative to gravel under-bedding will be to utilize a Enpress Vortech media tank as those are equipped with a bottom screen to support the media, and ensure an expanded low pressure zone without gravel.

 

[Runekey_69]

now i just wonder if i should replace the cation and carbon media too. as i mentioned its got a mid plate separating the resin from carbon. i wonder if ill have trouble with this. can i just dump everything out like with the tannin filter? it seems like the midplate would be built in or something that doesnt come out.

how bad is rapid pressurization anyways?.. i did see a lot of red coloring when i did my mess-ups lol.

maybe ill just regenerate it more frequently to solve my paranoia about fouling the anion.