Unifit Flange Question

[Christina C]

I used this forum so much a few years ago when we redid our bathroom. I also discovered my favorite toilet ever, the Toto. I'm familiar with the unifit flange having installed one on over a concrete slab 3 years ago.
We are going to redo our back bathroom and I need to know if I can install the 14" unifit where it just touches the finished wall. I don't mind stopping the bull nose base on either side of the toilet since it will be flush against the finished wall.
We have purchased the vespin ii.
I'd really like to save every spare inch in the bathroom but I dont want to have issues with the flange and will consent to the 12 if I have to. This toilet is also on tile over concrete slab.

Thanks in advance for any help!!

 

[Reach4]

You might find what I did with a Unifit to be interesting or useful.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...nifit-or-stick-with-the-12.59681/#post-442544 picture with ruler.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...rance-with-14-unifit-and-offset-flange.66596/ has marked-up unifit photo.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Christina C]

You might find what I did with a Unifit to be interesting or useful.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...nifit-or-stick-with-the-12.59681/#post-442544 picture with ruler.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...rance-with-14-unifit-and-offset-flange.66596/ has marked-up unifit photo.

I saw that post, so your flange touches the finished wall? I can see it's very close but not sure if it actually touches.

 

[Jadnashua]

When the flange is 'correct', when installing a Vespin II, there will be about 3/4" behind it. By using the proper adapter, that 'correct' flange would have either 10, 12, or 14" spacing to the finished wall.

To figure out how much gap will end up behind the toilet, you need to first know where your flange is relative to the wall behind it. So, while it could be somewhat of a pain, in theory, assuming the toilet was nominal (there is some slight variation - the 3/4" is the design goal that isn't always achieved), you could make it flush with the wall if your actual flange was at 9.25, 11.25 or 13.25".

TOday's toilets don't usually sweat since the incoming water is diluted with usually room temperature water, tempering it. But, in a high humidity area, or one where the toilet is flushed repeatedly in a high volume situation, you'd want some gap behind the tank so it could dry out. If you really want to save space, could you consider a wall-mounted toilet with the tank in the wall? Costs more, but it's a one-time expense.

 

[Reach4]

I saw that post, so your flange touches the finished wall? I can see it's very close but not sure if it actually touches.

Close but does not touch. My photo with the Unifit actually touching the wall was the 14-- which I ended up not using. Had I used the 14, I would have changed the closet bolt holes to put the toilet at the optimum distance.

 

[Jadnashua]

You're not going to get any toilet to fit if your toilet flange is touching the wall. NOw, you can install a toilet that touches the wall, but that can have some issues. Most modern toilets don't typically sweat because the water in the tank has a chance to warm up to room temperature before you later flush and that mixes with what's left in the tank. But, if you need to flush frequently for some reason, the water in the tank won't have had a chance to warm up, and the tank could then become cold enough to sweat. Having the tank tight to the wall under those circumstances could lead to mildew behind the toilet since it could get trapped there. That's one reason why they build them with a gap behind. The other reason is to account for slightly incorrectly located toilet flanges.

Where is your flange now?

 

[Christina C]

Where is your flange now?

Our flange is 13.25" from the finished wall now, but based on the replies is seems like were better loosing the 1" or so off the wall and using the 12" unifit. Being a DIYer gives me freedom to customize it, but I would rather a correct, problem-free install.

 

[Christina C]

I do feel a little silly buying a relatively expensive toilet if we are using a standard toilet rough-in. We have had a 1.28 GPF toto in our other bathroom for 3 years and it's worked amazingly. That's with 3 kids, 1 who insisted on 1/4 of a roll of toilet paper per wipe...

 

[Jadnashua]

If the 14" Unifit adapter was installed perfectly centered on that flange, the back of the toilet would be likely tight to the wall. You can usually fudge the adapter a bit, probably about 1/4" or so, so that there would be a slight gap behind it. There's enough slop in the bolts so you can slide it slightly forward. The opening of the flange is at least 3" and the horn on the toilet has an ID of about 2-1/4", so you can shift things and still have the outlet pointing down the hole without interference and the wax seal will still work.

Unfortunately, you can't exchange the 12" adapter that comes with it for a credit...you have to buy a 14" one and do whatever you want with the 12" one.

 

[Christina C]

If the 14" Unifit adapter was installed perfectly centered on that flange, the back of the toilet would be likely tight to the wall. You can usually fudge the adapter a bit, probably about 1/4" or so, so that there would be a slight gap behind it. There's enough slop in the bolts so you can slide it slightly forward. The opening of the flange is at least 3" and the horn on the toilet has an ID of about 2-1/4", so you can shift things and still have the outlet pointing down the hole without interference and the wax seal will still work.

Unfortunately, you can't exchange the 12" adapter that comes with it for a credit...you have to buy a 14" one and do whatever you want with the 12" one.

I purchased the 14" already thinking it would be the same install as our other bathroom. Here is a picture of both. Ignore tile, it's getting replaced. In order from top: flange, 12"unifit, 14" unifit, side view 14" unifit

 

[Terry]

The shutoff looks to be too close there.

 

[Christina C]

The shutoff looks to be too close there.

For sure it's not far enough away. It is one of the things we are paying to have moved up and out.

 

[Reach4]

I purchased the 14" already thinking it would be the same install as our other bathroom.

The 14 has resale value. The 12 does not.

So close. Widen the slots at the right place, and you will have a perfect fit.

 

[Jadnashua]

In one of those pictures, it appears that the center of the drain is closer to 12.5" or so versus the 13.25" you said earlier. But, use whichever one fits best.

To accurately measure, you might find the use of two squares work out the best...one to ensure you're square with the wall, and a second one to help determine the middle of the flange which might not be the middle of the slots...it looks like the flange was not installed with the slots rotated at the ideal location.

To be able to slide the Unifit a bit more, you might make the slots in the adapter a bit longer so it can slide more easily. Usually, you can get it to slide by just moving the screw head in the flange, but as long as you don't try to decenter it more than say 1/4-3/8", it should still seal and work. That would allow you to move the 12" one forward, or the 14" one back a bit. If you don't modify the 14" one and end up using the 12", you might be able to return the 14" Unifit.

You should also check whether the wall behind where the toilet is going is actually plumb. IT may not be. In the house where I grew up which has plastered walls, the walls are not all that plumb...smooth, but not plumb. I know that made installing a sliding glass door a major pain as the opening wasn't square. It could give you grief with the toilet, too.

 

[Christina C]

it looks like the flange was not installed with the slots rotated at the ideal location.

Would you adjust it or just leave as is? Also, I think I can return the 14" unifit so I'm not too worried about that.

I think due to the nature of issues brought up here, which are all relevant, we are better to use the 12" and just slide it back/center in the drain. I really want to fudge it and just force the 14" to work, but I'm afraid I'll regret it down the road, if not sooner (as in installing a tank that I realize won't fit). And drilling into the slab wasn't easy and I don't want a redo. I checked our front bathroom and the 14" unifit flange still has 1/2 to 3/4" of space between it and the finished wall and the tank is just a hair away from the wall.

This project wasn't planned right now and was only forced because the last toilet developed and leak around the wax ring and when I went to check I was just stupid and careless and broke the bowl on an old kohler. I tried to get a replacement bowl but the toilet is out of compliance in California. The bathroom is the original stuff on the house mostly, 1978, so my husband and I decided that maybe we should just redo it. We are just trying to find someone to tile the shower, the rest we will do ourselves.

 

[Jadnashua]

Would you adjust it or just leave as is? Also, I think I can return the 14" unifit so I'm not too worried about that.

If you can get the toilet bolts to fit, leave it. IF you want the max flexibility on moving the assembly slightly to optimize your clearance spaces, then you should consider rotating it to optimize your flexibility.

A hammer drill going into concrete and a good bit can make it no worse than drilling into hardwood. But, if you're drilling through some porcelain tile, a diamond core bit may work out better. To keep the bit from failing quickly, you need to keep the surface wet with one of those, too. Those literally sort of grind a hole versus cutting it, so they work slower, but will cut anything.