Understand Laundry Machine Standpipe

[Joseph Skoler]

No one "closes" their system. Of course I can't say it's never been done but water and sewer systems are not hard piped together. Your washing machine has something of an air gap in that the water dumps from the top, but there is also a lid. The lid locks. So your water and sewer are tied together without the standpipe.

By closed I mean no opening, such as what I have now. There is no permanent opening. I can remove a cap off the 4" to make an opening if/when I choose.

While the laundry machine has a water-in and a waste-out port, are they really tied together in the sense that the waste-out can feed into the water-in? That would be a nasty situation. Are you saying that a air-gap drain (flex pipe stuck into a standpipe) is the only thing preventing waste-out from getting into the water-in port?

 

[Joseph Skoler]

You could put in a water alarm that would alert you if the standpipe overflows, or a washer hose breaks, or the washer leaks.

Cheers, Wayne

Great idea -- will look into this.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Joseph Skoler]

That clogging is unlikely. More likely is the septic tank getting overfilled and/or in-tank filter getting clogged.

How long it should be between pumpings varies. Number of people, what non-human stuff they put down the toilet, whether you have a garbage disposal, and what you put down the disposal/drains.

Getting the system pumped earlier than needed is going to cost you some money. But going too long can cost big money. What I think you want to do is to get the system first pumped maybe ((5 years)/(number of people)). Get an experienced owner-operator. Ask neighbors who have been there for a while. Don't go by who advertises more. Ask the person how full it was, and what percent of really needing it it was. Then you can estimate a new interval, and put that on your calendar.

So how much does it cost you to be early so you were only half way to needing it? The $200 to $300 you pay? Nope. Half of that.

If the entrance is hidden, measure the distance of the center from a fixed thing, such as the nearest point on foundation, and a corner of the house. Make notes on a label on your pipes. Then for next time, you would know that the location was the intersection of a line parallel to the foundation, and an arc from the corner of the foundation. But then your system may have visible risers that make that unnecessary.


I would try to remove the dirt without tearing out the bottom of the pit. Are there any holes in the walls? Is that pit on the lower level of the basement or the elevated portion?

=========An alarm============
https://www.basementwatchdog.com/watchdog-water-alarm/
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Basement-Watchdog-Battery-Operated-Water-Alarm-BWD-HWA/100038838
Takes 9-volt battery, and you need to remember to change it. There are others, but that is the only one I have tried.

I can't even go into the septic system (hurts my brain). I have new 6" PVC running from the house, across the front lawn (~80'), through old pipe that runs under the public road, and into a concrete pit of unknown age and unknown condition. Luckily (I think), the terrain across the road continues downhill, and I think I've seen the concrete pit overflow during heavy rains. As for when it's been pumped: It hasn't been in use in many years and I doubt it was maintained responsibly.

If I could get it pumped now, just for a little peace of mind, for $200 I'd do it in a heartbeat. Everything's expensive around here (and not because this is a fancy area -- it is not).

Thank you very much for the alarm links. I'll check them out. I'd need one with wifi connectivity (or Smartthings).

 

[John Gayewski]

6"pipe is too big. That would be more likley to clog than a 3 or 4 inch.

 

[Joseph Skoler]

6"pipe is too big. That would be more likley to clog than a 3 or 4 inch.

I didn't know that when I put it in, but it's in and not going anywhere. I put in 2-way cleanouts close to the road, so I have that going for me.

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Back to my question about the washing machine drain:

i just want to make sure that it is okay to have the trap approximately 5’ above the floor (which puts the weir about 10” above the horizontal main stack) and the top (or opening) of the standpipe 18” above that.

With the washing machine sitting on the floor.

thanks!

 

[John Gayewski]

Back to my question about the washing machine drain:

i just want to make sure that it is okay to have the trap approximately 5’ above the floor (which puts the weir about 10” above the horizontal main stack) and the top (or opening) of the standpipe 18” above that.

With the washing machine sitting on the floor.

thanks!

Not according to upc

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Not according to upc

So what do I do?

 

[wwhitney]

So what do I do?

Confirm that you are subject to the IPC, rather than the UPC, which doesn't have that limit.

Also confirm that your washing machine can pump to the height you need. The manual should specify.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Confirm that you are subject to the IPC, rather than the UPC, which doesn't have that limit.

Also confirm that your washing machine can pump to the height you need. The manual should specify.

Cheers, Wayne

From what I can tell, NY uses IPC.

And, it looks like the top of the standpipe must be no higher than 96” from bottom of machine (if I’m reading this correctly).

so I’m good?

 

[Reach4]

so I’m good?

Yes. They sell extensions for the washers if the included hose is not long enough for what you need.

 

[John Gayewski]

From what I can tell, NY uses IPC.

And, it looks like the top of the standpipe must be no higher than 96” from bottom of machine (if I’m reading this correctly).

so I’m good?

View attachment 77850

Sounds like it to me