Underground water main

[Joseph Skoler]

I need to replace a 3/4" PVC from the town's curb valve at the road to my house, about 150'.

I have a tiny bit of experience and a basic understanding of CTS/IPS, SRD/SIDR, etc.

Is using a 1.5" or 2" SIDR Poly pipe with insert barb connectors and marine grade hose clamps fine or should I be looking at a different solution?

Should I be looking at SIDR 7, 9, 11, 11.5?

Are poly inserts okay or should I use brass?

Lastly, anyone have a good online source?

Thank you very much!

 

[Reach4]

I need to replace a 3/4" PVC from the town's curb valve at the road to my house, about 150'.

I have a tiny bit of experience and a basic understanding of CTS/IPS, SRD/SIDR, etc.

Is using a 1.5" or 2" SIDR Poly pipe with insert barb connectors and marine grade hose clamps fine or should I be looking at a different solution?

That is more than fine. 1 inch SIDR would probably be adequate, and 1.25 or 1.50 would be even lower drop.

Should I be looking at SIDR 7, 9, 11, 11.5?

Usually people pick a PSI, and go with whatever ratio achieves that. 160 psi is usually good, unless your water provider says more is called for.

Are poly inserts okay or should I use brass?

Stainless or brass usually.

Lastly, anyone have a good online source?

Of SIDR pipe and fittings?

Home Depot seems hard to shop for SIDR pipe for some reason, but they have it without using that term. Menards does not deliver SIDR pipe to NY.

When you lay pipe, don't pull tight, but instead snake it in the trench to allow for thermal contraction.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Joseph Skoler]

That is more than fine. 1 inch SIDR would probably be adequate, and 1.25 or 1.50 would be even lower drop.


Usually people pick a PSI, and go with whatever ratio achieves that. 160 psi is usually good, unless your water provider says more is called for.


Stainless or brass usually.


Of SIDR pipe and fittings?

Home Depot seems hard to shop for SIDR pipe for some reason, but they have it without using that term. Menards does not deliver SIDR pipe to NY.

When you lay pipe, don't pull tight, but instead snake it in the trench to allow for thermal contraction.

The water main will be feeding a single house with 1 kitchen, 4 bathrooms and 7 bedrooms, as well as 3 cottages each with 2 bedrooms, 1 kitchen and 1 bathroom. In addition, I will be installing a residential sprinkler system in the main house. That's why I was looking at 1.5". Maybe even 2'.

Looks like SIDR 11.5 is 160 psi (0.14" wall thickness) and SIDR 9 is 200 psi (0.179" wall thickness) -- and sounds like I'd be fine with either. I wonder if the wall thickness adds not only to the max pressure rating but to the durability?

Stainless or brass -- got it. So, I don't have to bother with any of the fancier ways of connecting PE (welding) -- insert barb is reliable enough for 20 years in the ground?

I was thinking about snaking the pipe in a 4" corrugated pipe to help protect it and in case I even need to fix or replace it. I have clay and rocky soil, so I'd otherwise have to use sand anyway.

HD/Lowes don't carry these pipes and fittings. Would much prefer an online source.

Thank you!

 

[wwhitney]

In addition, I will be installing a residential sprinkler system in the main house.

I take that to mean fire sprinklers. In many jurisdictions, they would have to be designed by a professional. In which case you'd want to get their input before sizing your main water lateral.

Sometimes a separate lateral is run for the fire sprinklers; then it can be sized just based on the sprinkler system demand. If you have the domestic demand for 4 residences on top of the sprinkler system demand, that can make your required shared lateral size large. To make up some semi-plausible numbers, 10 gpm for the main house, 5 gpm for each cottage, and 20 gpm for the fire sprinklers would give you 45 gpm. Probably that's an overestimate, but maybe not.

Cheers, Wayne