Underground Tie in to copper water supply line

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I would like to create a tie in point for a sprinkler system into the run from the city meter to the house. This run is 3/4" copper and so it has very minimal flex to it. Once cut, I think that I would be able to dislocate the copper pipes axially to slide a fitting on one end but I don't think I'd be able to pull the ends away from each other enough to get the other end of a normal copper tee fully installed.

How can this be done?

Could the pipe be cut a little shorter to only give half engagement into the socket of a normal copper tee?

Is it bad to have soldered connections underground?

I have seen a sharkbite fitting designed for this (U3370LF) but they do not seem readily available and I'd think they would work best on a clean copper pipe not one that has been buried for 50 years. Any comments or experience with these?
 

Terry

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You can use 90's and come in from the top or the side. Soldering is fine in the dirt, not below concrete though. Silver solder brazing if under concrete.
No lead solder would be much, much better than a Shark or push fitting.
Also , the irrigation needs either a vacuum breaker at the highest point above the heads, or a reduced pressure backflow preventer to prevent a cross contamination with your drinking water.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. I had not thought of that one. However the solution with 90's adds several joints which I would like to avoid.

Is it an absolutely idiotic suggestion to only engage half the socket at each end of the tee, thereby allowing the fitting to be installed in line? I'd mark the precise spot to locate the tee to ensure each end got half engagement. Its a shame they do not make copper tees with an extended socket on one end so a person could do this without cheating.

Regarding the backflow prevention, around here the regional district requires a dual check but the city ups the requirement to a double check. Quite a difference in cost. But I can understand they need to protect the water system.
 

Jeff H Young

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Would you be able to provide a part# or description? Is this just a sweat coupling with no ridge?

yes it is a lot of times the coupling has 2 or 3 bumps (stops) you can take a round file in about 2 minutes file those stops away. they also make a true repair coupling I think its about 4 inches long for a 3/4. anyway mark your pipe so you know its on far enough
 

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Seems pretty hard. No dents or other signs from digging too close. I assume the hard will more likely be round. I think I'll go with the repair coupling if that's the case. I can put a caliper on it and double check for round as an extra precaution before I start. Thanks for the advice gentlemen.
 

Jeff H Young

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I didnt see a mention of crushed pipe? Why a 90 would go on and not a coupling I dont know. If a fitting slips over reasonably Id say leave the machinist tools in box . Soft copper comes in rolls deforms easily but even if its soft copper and a bit out of round it can be reformed driving a fitting on carefully. if you have a difficulty let us know
 

wwhitney

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There are also tools to restore copper to a round shape. I believe Pasco calls them sizing tools, and Reed calls them rerounding tools.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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