Two Shallow Mineral Well Questions (one at a time)

[BTT]

Situation: I'm replacing a 1hp shallow well pump for a 32' deep (105 degree) mineral-well with a 6" casing and 29' of 2" PVC with foot valve to draw water to the surface (about 10' above water table), then 15' horizontally to the pump. I'm replacing a cheap "$80 harbor freight" pump that I bought to check out the well when I had it drilled 2 years ago. (It was much more durable than expected). That pump sat upon a small bladder tank, but its replacement has none - it is a 1hp Craftsman "Hydroglass" Convertible (deep or shallow) jet pump. The 2" supply line reduces to 1 1/4" at the pump's input and it has a 1" discharge to which is connected a couple garden hose spigots and two ball-cocks that supply an outdoor hot-tub and a shower.
The driller told me that no tank was needed for my periodic-use application and the person at the Sears help desk agreed. That seemed ideal since I didn't want to cool the hot water.
However, when I plumbed it, primed it, and flipped the switch (with one hose spigot open) the pump came on and turned off in very rapid succession, which obviously is not good.
I've read every applicable post I could find here in the past 6 hours and would really appreciate anyone offering their ideas for the cheapest reasonable solution that keeps the pump alive and me in hot water.
TIA,
BTT

 

[Teets]

Sounds to me that the pump can build pressure faster than your hose can let out. You should install a small tank , so the pump has something to wok against.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Just bypass the pressure switch.

 

[BTT]

"You should install a small tank , so the pump has something to wok against."

Thank you Mr Teets:

That's pretty much what my novice perspective indicated, but a "tank-sizing" formula that I found on the forum used a division factor of .27 x 10GPM, so I'd need a 30 gal tank, which I don't consider small.
It would be a struggle to get even that size tank reasonably close to the pump, but if it could be located 20 to 100 feet down-line from the pump's discharge, that might provide a significant benefit, particularly if the tank could withstand heat in the 130 to 150 degree range. (We use "green" simplicity/technology wherever we can and this would allow us to use the tank as a solar water heater.)
If such an option exist, I'd guess that a bladder-tank should NOT be used, if any pressure-tank could.
Appreciative of all advice here,
BTT

 

[BTT]

"Just bypass the pressure switch."

Thank you Valveman:

Of course the owners manual doesn't mention this option. And, I'm in the dark as to how it would be done.
Too, I'm wondering about the effect on the pump with this application, when using the water in a sporadic on/off applications like cleaning with a pressure washer. We pressure-wash a lot (major remodeling project) and with the old bladder-tank pump there was no apparent excessive pump wear.
Again, I know nothing about wells or their associated parameters, which makes this forum invaluable to my efforts toward a more sustainable lifestyle.
TIA for any additional observations,
BTT

 

[NHmaster]

Bypass the pressure switch or eliminate it altogether. Many many sprinkler systems are set up just that way. A small tank is not much better than no tank at all.

 

[Valveman]

If you want the pump to be manually operated, then you can bypass the pressure switch. Flip a swith and the pump is on. Just don't forget to turn it off or it will melt down in just a few minutes.

If you want the pump to automatically come on when you pull the handle on the pressure washer, or turn on a shower, then you need a pressure tank and pressure switch.

If you don't want the pump to cycle on and off while using water, then you need a CSV. A CVS will also allow this system to work with a small basketball size tank.

 

[BTT]

Thank you all for your above advice.

To be sure I understand your advice and what I've read in the forum, can I:

1. locate a pressure tank 25 to 100 feet down-line from the pump's 1" discharge;

2. have garden-hose spigots and other taps off that 1" line between the pump and the tank.

TIA, BTT

 

[BTT]

Rephrased as Questions for Clarification

Just edited my previous post as it should have been, in the form of questions:

Can I:

1. locate a pressure tank 25 to 100 feet down-line from the pump's 1" discharge.

2. have garden-hose spigots and other taps off that 1" line between the pump and the tank.

Thanks in advance,
BTT

 

[Valveman]

Questions about your CSV (Psidekick system, I presume) for my shallow-well 10 to 15 gpm jet pump application:

1. Does it have to be located at the pump or can it be 100 or so feet away (at the end of the discharge line)?

As long as the pressure switch stays with the pressure tank, the Pside-Kick can be a long ways from the pump.

2. If so, does it function properly if there are garden hose spigots and/or shower or tub faucets, etc., operating from various points along that line?

As long as there are no check valves in that line, you can tee in anywhere.