I have a tub drain that I want to convert to a shower stall drain. I want to bring it out from the wall with a 45 degree elbow after removing all the 1.5 inch pipe. I think it would bring it out about 6 to 8 inches from the wall yet using the existing trap. Is it acceptable to do so ? Should i change it to 2” all the way up ?
Tub to shower drain conversion
- Thread starter mrowens33
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Breplum
Licensed plumbing contractor
all 2" is code
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John Gayewski
In the Trades
2" would be better. However a lot of codes allow a retrofit to be converted to 2" at the tailpiece allowing you to keep a 1.5" trap as long as the shower doesn't have multiple heads and is a certain size.
When I had to connect to an 11/2 bathtub waste there was no option available so I used an 11/2 galvanized nipple close as possible to the existing cast iron stack and used a 2 x 11/2 mission coupling
This is NOT good practice or against most civilized plumbing codes
This is NOT good practice or against most civilized plumbing codes
TheGreek
New Member
I have the same issue on a retro fit. I have a pit with a 1.5 inch drain. CA code tells me that I can go from the Kohler cast iron shower pan 2 inch fitting to 1.5 inch.
You can also see from the photo that on the other side of the wall there is the lower landing of the staircase. We will be cutting an access space to TRY and be able to get back in to change the drain seal if the need ever arises. The walls will be full wainscot tile. So once the pan is in it cannot be moved to get at it.
My plumber wants to jack hammer out to have the P-Trap be all two inch. But I did the volume math and with the end of the P-Trap going into a 1.5 inch pipe before it drops down under the pad and then into the 3 inch main...the "reservoir capacity" is negotiable for such a small run between a 1.5 and 2 inch pipe.
With what is there, they could use a strap clamp, they make them in 1.5 one one side and 2.O on the other and use the existing P-Trap. Also, by having the clamp up high on the short lateral to the pan pipe, one may be able to reach under and pull it off if the seal ever needs to be replaced.
Can anyone advise me? Also, since this is the same basic subject I tacked on to this existing conversation...
JD.
You can also see from the photo that on the other side of the wall there is the lower landing of the staircase. We will be cutting an access space to TRY and be able to get back in to change the drain seal if the need ever arises. The walls will be full wainscot tile. So once the pan is in it cannot be moved to get at it.
My plumber wants to jack hammer out to have the P-Trap be all two inch. But I did the volume math and with the end of the P-Trap going into a 1.5 inch pipe before it drops down under the pad and then into the 3 inch main...the "reservoir capacity" is negotiable for such a small run between a 1.5 and 2 inch pipe.
With what is there, they could use a strap clamp, they make them in 1.5 one one side and 2.O on the other and use the existing P-Trap. Also, by having the clamp up high on the short lateral to the pan pipe, one may be able to reach under and pull it off if the seal ever needs to be replaced.
Can anyone advise me? Also, since this is the same basic subject I tacked on to this existing conversation...
JD.
