It is not uncommon to end the cbu at the tub tiling flange rather than coming over it which often would cause it to bow out. But, it should not be tight down to the horizontal surface of the tub. You could use a strip of the mesh and the waterproofing to seal that joint, with only enough on the tub so that the tile would eventually cover it. KerdiFix is great stuff, but if I were going to use it for that, I'd want to use a strip of Kerdiband, and use the Kerdifix to adhere it to the tub, and thinset to adhere it to the wall with the cbu.
If I were really concerned with mold, I'd consider coating the entire wall surface with a waterproofing material...cbu is not waterproof, just not damaged by water.
Did they install a vapor barrier behind the cbu? (Hardiebacker is a type of cbu). If not, then without removing it, you really should consider a topical waterproofing. That could be a sheet like Kerdi, or the paint-on waterproofing material you used in the corners. If you don't have one, go to a good paint store and pick up a wet film thickness gauge and ask them how to use it properly (well, hopefully, they know!). It is crucial to check you have your liquid water proofing material applied at the proper thickness, and even when using the approved roller, how it is applied will vary considerably depending on technique. Essentially a wet film thickness gauge has some stepped fingers. You press it onto the just painted surface perpendicular to the surface, and see which fingers (steps) are coated. The last (highest) step that is covered with the material (the next ones being dry) indicates the thickness of the material. It MUST be between the min/max specified. Do this in more than one place, and adjust your technique if it is not within the proper range.