Tub spout drop from mixing valve too short

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pooldoc

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While helping my grandson remodel his bath, we installed new shower/tub valve, however, unknowingly installed the tub spout pipe too short. (minimum lenght 8"). Mine is 6.5" valve to elbow. When we got finished and tried out the system water came out the shower as well as the spout with the diverter open. Very low flow of water from the spout and small stream from shower. Delta says minimum 8" distance between the valve and elbow or not going to work. The tub surround is tiled and I don't want to remove the tile if there is a workaround. If the 8" is just the length of the pipe can I just make a "swing joint " in the pipe to lengthen it or is the elevation important? The pipe is cpvc.
 

Reach4

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I think you are saying that when you fill the tub, water also comes out of the showerhead.

You could try something that raises the showerhead. If that does not fix it, without opening the walls, I would work around this with a showerhead that has a shutoff. Many of the flex-line handheld showerheads have a shutoff.

I doubt that the 6.5 vs 8 has anything to do with it. I am not a plumber.
 

LLigetfa

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My guess is you installed the rough-in upside down. The tub filler port is often larger bore than the shower port. A flow restriction in the filler port can divert some water up to the shower head.
 

hj

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8" is an arbitrary measurement in order for the spout not to interfere with the big round trim plate, or other plates Delta uses. It does NOTHING to restrict the flow to the spout, or divert it to the shower head. Your symptoms are casued by something else. CPVC pipe is almost the same size as PEX, and THAT is the problem. You had to use copper, brass, or at least steel piping to prevent it, as stated in the installation instructions.
 

Terry

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The pipe needed to be copper to the tub spout. That's in the instructions.
CPVC and PEX will force water to the shower head when running the tub.

delta-tub-spout-install.jpg


pex-to-copper-fitting.jpg
 
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pooldoc

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The pipe needed to be copper to the tub spout. That's in the instructions.
CPVC and PEX will force water to the shower head when running the tub.

delta-tub-spout-install.jpg
The tub spout itself is connected via threaded iron nipple. Sorry if not clear. Flow to tub spout is very low and would take probably 1/2 hr to fill tub.(guess, no trial).
 

Terry

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The tub spout itself is connected via threaded iron nipple. Sorry if not clear. Flow to tub spout is very low and would take probably 1/2 hr to fill tub.(guess, no trial).

Threaded nipple to spout, but is there any reduction in size from the valve to the spout? Did you use two threaded nipples and a 90 or is there any CPVC in any part of the piping to the spout.
 

pooldoc

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gotcha. Yes, so my best choice is to change the size/type of pipe used from valve to spout? I have access behind the ficture still so maybe a change is still possible. I don't sweat copper so would a
 

pooldoc

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Sorry, hit wrong key. I don't sweat copper so is there an alternative? I suppose that bushing down from 3/4 to the 1/2 installed would still create too much restriction?
 

Jadnashua

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Two things...you do NOT want any iron fittings or nipples in new, potable water runs. The stuff WILL eventually rust, and give you a burst of funky water after sitting.

TO fix this, unless the outlet of the valve is dual-purpose (solder and IPS - threaded), you really want to solder things. While threaded can work, a good solder joint is essentially a permanent solution...a threaded one may not be if not done well. Keep in mind that lots of the threaded stuff you can buy today may not be to spec...threads too short, threads too long, dull die with torn threads, etc...any of those can make getting a good seal harder.

I wouldn't use any of the press-on fittings, but if you do, keep in mind that they do not 'lock' on like a soldered or threaded fitting...the slip-on side will rotate on the pipe...the attachment only keeps it from being pulled back off again unless you use the release mechanism.

Find a friend that has the soldering tools and knows what he's doing, or pay a pro for it. It's not all that hard with a bit of practice. You can buy the tools needed and some spare pipe and fittings, practice, and probably still come out way less than a service call.

If you used the larger port on the valve for the shower, nothing you do will fix this easily.
 

LLigetfa

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I have access behind the ficture still so maybe a change is still possible.
While you have it open check to make sure the rough-in isn't upside down. As I mentioned, the shower port is smaller than the filler port and will produce the same symptoms you describe.
 

pooldoc

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Ok, I tried to see if the valve is upside down but couldn't see any arrows or indicators. How do I tell without cutting lines and removing?
 

LLigetfa

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For example, the Delta R10000 has the word UP on the top.
 

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LLigetfa

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That would depend on what model of rough-in you have. With the R10000, there should be two ports on the bottom a screw hole below it, and one port above it. If you google for some videos, you might find one that shows what it should look like.

A seasoned plumber like Terry would know from first glance if it is upside down.
 
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Jadnashua

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If you pull the cartridge, you MIGHT be able to tell. I think you'll find one port is larger than the other.
 
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