Tub Spiggot broke off: PVC extraction?

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by smbn-atl, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. smbn-atl

    smbn-atl New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Location:
    Georgia
    Photos Attached.
    Brass tub spigot snapped off, leaving the PCV broken off between the brass spigot and the brass valve body.
    In attempting to remove the remaining PVC adapter from the valve body, the PVC broke off cleanly at the brass line - leaving the male-PVC thread in the female-brass valve body, with NO PVC protruding. I am considering attempting to remove the remaining PVC from the valve using a #7 Fluted Screw Extractor:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Screw-Extractor-Set/999957791

    I am working through an 8"x8" hole in the sheetrock, from the far side of a chase-wall - about 12" inches from the valve with the residual PVC... a tight spot, with not much maneuvering room (sound familiar?) - much less room for tools. Would love to use a right-angle drill with a full-size extractor, but I'd have to cut out a lot more wall.

    Would greatly appreciate feedback - and any alternative suggestions.

    Thank you.

    - SMBN / Atlanta
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 27, 2016
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    Hopefully, it's CPVC, not PVC, which isn't suitable for potable water use!

    If that is threaded in there, a screw extractor should probably work, or maybe an internal pipe wrench. FWIW, a tub spout should never be plumbed with a plastic pipe since one, it's weak, and probably more important, the ID is smaller than copper (or a brass nipple), and that can cause issues with the diverter when trying to fill the tub verses using the shower. Once you get it out, use either brass or copper to replace it.
     
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    I was unable to find the size of that square on the extractor.

    1. With your extractor, how about trying to grip that square end with a 4- or 12-point closed end box wrench.

    2. Now if that square drive corresponds to a square drive size used for ratchets, how about putting a socket on that extractor. Grab the socket with a ViceGrip, and turn that extractor.

    3. use open end wrench.

    4. use a ViceGrip

    5. use an adjustable wrench.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2016
  5. smbn-atl

    smbn-atl New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Location:
    Georgia
    Thanks for the replies, gents.
    - It is CPVC.
    - Have ordered both extractor and internal pipe wrench (hadn't heard of that before).
    There is no square-end left... when I was attempting to remove it with a channel-lock, the adapter sheared at the brass (no protruding CPVC to 'grab').
    Tools should arrive Monday - will post an update next week sometime.
    Thanks again.
    Best -
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    I was referring to the square end on the extractor.
     
  7. smbn-atl

    smbn-atl New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Location:
    Georgia
    Got it: thank you (was reading to fast - apologies).
    Socket sounds great - will work on that option first.
    Aside from the insane cost of right-angle drills, it's probably too tight - and the extractors are long...
    Thanks again.
     
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Some extractors ARE square and they usually work best to remove things. Never heard of IPS CPVC, which is what it would have to be to be threaded.
     
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