Tub/Shower Leak

[Warrantone]

My wife noticed a small wet spot the size of a quarter in our 1st floor ceiling. Since I replaced the tub drain 4 months ago just above this location I reinstalled it with a lot more plumber's putty. However, this did not stop the leak. I open up the ceiling at the wet spot (about 1.5" in diameter) enough for my finger to feel what appears to be a copper supply line going up to the shower/tub valve on the floor above. The line was wet. I wanted to replace the Moen 1222 Positemp valve anyway and did. Since the water was off overnight, the ceiling area that was previously wet is now dry but I do not trust that such a leak is repaired without more time. My question is, how likely is it that replacing the Moen 1222 valve, which was 20 years old, was the cause of the leak? Is there some chance that water was leaking past the valve and running back on the valve body and then down the copper supply lines until it dripped onto the ceiling? How often do you see that?

 

[Warrantone]

Incidentally there is not an access door behind the tub but I am prepared to make one if the leak continues.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Without a few more details, it's hard to say what you did would have fixed the problem. You'd need to know where the old plumbing was actually leaking...if say from a defect, pin-hole, a bad solder joint, a threaded joint not tight enough or properly sealed with pipe dope or tape, etc. Most modern valves, if it's not a plumbing defect or failure in the piping, tend to leak into the shower. But, it could be something as simple as a failing tub filler that's spraying back into the wall, a broken el where the shower arm attaches, etc.

 

[Warrantone]

Thanks Jim.
We had company on the way so I wanted to button everything up on faith that valve replacement would be the fix. However, I wasn't going to take a chance with water coming through our ceiling so I let it drip for a few days and then opened up the wall behind the valve. It was all dry. Then I opened up the ceiling below and found a bad solder joint. Still amazed at how the joint could have been ok, or not so bad to cause a noticeable leak, and then get worse to the point of coming through the ceiling. It had dripped for long enough to cause a mold problem in there but only recently get so bad that we could see it. Anyhow, a few Sharkbite connectors and some copper tubing and all is well.

 

[Jadnashua]

Both HJ and Terry have mentioned times where plumbing had been leak-free for years, and once something got bumped, it leaked. Sometimes, there's no obvious reason why...it would take tearing it apart to actually tell. Usually, though, if you use good technique, then pressure test...if it doesn't leak, it's okay. The keys to a good solder joint are: clean surfaces, good, even coat of flux, even heating without overheating, and adequate solder with everything held without moving until the solder solidifies.

 

[Warrantone]

Guess we'll never know. Took the elbow I cut off to an experienced guy at Ace and he said looks like plumber used whatever he had in his truck. I'm not experienced at all but I could tell that the solder held at all. There was excessive solder on one side and none on the other. I think the torch was held too long in one place and the solder dripped through so was super thin. Oh well. Glad it's over.

 

[mnRemodeler]

How do you pressure test? You just turn the water on?

 

[Warrantone]

I screw my pressure gauge onto a hose bib outside the house at or below first floor and turn the hose bib on. If pressure is lower than 60 psi I turn the adjusting nut in. If it's above 80 psi I turn the nut out. Then I recheck by releasing pressure at the gauge and turning the bib on again. Make sure the gauge is reading at a location that is connected to pressure after the pressure regulator.

 

[Jadnashua]

How do you pressure test? You just turn the water on?

Yes, generally, that's all you need to do. If it doesn't leak, normally, you're fine. On some things, you might need to cap the pipe, and then, something like a Sharkbite cap is useful, since it's easily removed and reusable.

 

[mnRemodeler]

Thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.