Tub not level or defective

[heyitsmatt]

Hello

I've been a lurker on here for quite some time and every issue I've come across has been addressed until now.

Let me go to the beginning.

My 6 yo daughter kicked our shower wall while taking a bath . What I didn't know was how bad the wall behind the tile was. The wallboard (I assume just drywall - built in 1970) was completely rotted as well as the subfloor.

I asked a family friend for help removing the 350lb cast iron tub and replacing the subfloor. At that point the subfloor was my biggest worry. This family friend is a handy man of sorts (mainly a finish carpenter) and actually had some home remodels featured in Better Homes and Garden. So, I took what he said as scripture (mistake). I purchased a new steel tub (Bootzcast) and he came over removed the cast iron tub - in one piece without any damage to the tub (had I known it would have came out that easy I would have put it back in). The new tub was deeper and wider - the wife wanted the bigger tub. Fine. So according family friend - the 1/2" subfloor was fine. He installed the new tub and was on his way. This pissed me off - why remove a perfectly fine 350lb cast iron tub to put a new tub on top of rotten subfloor?

About 2 hours later the subfloor condition was still stuck in my head. I removed new tub and further inspected. There were areas of the subfloor that I was able to push my finger through. To me that is no good. I cut all of the 1/2" out and replaced it with new 1/2" then laid 3/4" on top of that. I did remove all floor covering as well. So the entire bathroom has had damaged 1/2" replaced and 3/4" on top. The old flooring was 1/2" sub, 3/4" particle board (NASTY), thin linoleum tile,1/2" cement board then ceramic tile. With the 3/4" on top plus 1/4" cement board and tile it should match my hardwood hall perfectly.

On to my current issue. The new tub. It's 1/8" off in one spot. I figured that shouldn't be a problem (any adjustments to bring the 1/8" up threw everything else off) except when I was laying out my tile. I think it's just in this one front edge - manufacturer defect maybe? I put the level on it's fine. This spot must drop towards the front of the tub? Let me just say, at this point it's not coming out.

What are my options? Part of me feels like I'm overthinking - my OCD is kicking in.

Sorry this is so long. I appreciate all of your expertise.

 

[heyitsmatt]

The more I think about this...

Should I start the first row as not a full tile and just cut that angle of the tile to match the slope of the tub?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

With tile you want to keep it pretty centered.
On the back wall, you draw the center mark and work your tile towards the corners making the adjustments there.
Normally on the apron side, a row of tile is pretty much even with the face of the tub, and then a row beyond that. Make it so you can trim and fit to the apron, keeping the last row vertical on the edge. The cuts are made in the corners again.

I've seen old cast tubs with new tile, and often that old cast looks old after you see the new tile next to it.
They will last a very long time to be sure, but they still age.

 

[heyitsmatt]

Thanks Terry.

What you've mentioned is exactly my plan.

What about the tile I have in "bathtub4.jpg?" It's level but there is a 3/8" gap on the apron side of it.

My plan would be to start the first / bottom row of tiles with an inch cut off so instead of being 12x12 they would be 11x12. This way when I get to the apron on the problem end I would make a cut starting at 1" and angling it to make up for the 3/8" drop. If that makes sense?

 

[hj]

Your first mistake may have been to get an enameled steel tub. My opinion of those are that they are defective the day they are made and just go down hill from there.

 

[Stuff]

Just finished a project on a friend's house. The Americast Cambridge tub (I believe is equivalent to Bootzcast) was twisted. Since it was special order we didn't want to send it back and do without. So after leveling the tub as best we could (3 of 4 corners level) the bottom apron stuck out 1/2" on one side and 1/4" on the other. It also rocked on the ledger board - the back dipped about 1/2" in the middle. A mortar bed made it solid at least.

I didn't see but you should have a water/vapor barrier along with the cement board.

Yes, you trim tile pieces at angles to make them fit.

For tile we used 12x12 with 3/8" grout lines to hide variances. Since we were needing to trim most of the first row anyway we decided on a laser level line 6" above the tub. So first row is only half high. That and with a 1/2 offset brick pattern the unevenness is not noticeable. Next used 3x12 bull-nose trim vertically lined up at the top of the apron and the ones below are trimmed at an angle. Yours is tilted the other way but you may be OK with just a wide caulk joint. If not good enough then start with a full width bull-nose at the bottom and trim the rest.

 

[Jadnashua]

It's not uncommon to use less than a full tile at the bottom to account for variations. Use halves only if it helps with your symmetry. Most people won't notice that you cut 1/4" or so off of most of them if needed to keep a consistent gap to the tub as long as the grout line is plumb.

The only way drywall is viable in a tub/shower situation is if it is covered (and installed) correctly using one of the two approved sheet membranes: Kerdi, or Hydroban sheet. Any other time, drywall or moisture resistant drywall should never be used in a wet area like a tub/shower.

You do want to use the special mesh tape and tape the seams of the cbu on the walls prior to putting up the tile along with having a vapor barrier behind it against the studs. WHile people think it's the tile that waterproofs (or makes things water resistant) is the tile and grout, the area should not be damaged by moisture prior to the tile, which is a decorative, wear surface.

 

[heyitsmatt]

Thanks for the replies.

I used a waterproofing membrane over the cement board with mesh tape in the seams/corners.