Tub drain replacement-kind of urgent

[Nicholas Meyers]

Hello,
I am remodeling my master bathroom, but in the meantime got a ceiling leak this morning under what was the only other functioning bathroom's tub drain. So we're without a shower/tub.

Was hoping the experts on the forum could suggest what they'd do here.

The brass tube coming out of the shoe was badly corroded, and the shoe didn't line up with the vertical tee (which is parallel to the joist). The brass tube was under a lot of tension in order for the drain to mate with the tee, and probably accelerated the corrosion. It looks like they had some joist issues when they put it in.

I don't want to try to rotate the tee or replace the whole drain assembly because of access issues and besides the joist seems like it would prevent me from rotating the shoe as much as I'd need to.

I was thinking to put in a PVC shoe and run a horizontal PVC tube into the old brass tee with a slip nut. I am hoping that will allow some flex and compensate for the misalignment. For reference, I put a hammer in the drain opening in the last picture, but it's off laterally by about an inch.

Does this approach make sense? Should that give enough flex?

I was thinking I could also add a Fernco in the 5" horizontal tube to give some more flex. Or would that be too risky?

Thanks,
Nick



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[Nicholas Meyers]

Just curious if the lack of replies means that I should resort to taking out the tub or the entire wall and studs to replace the entire waste assembly?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

Id open the lid replace waste and over flow from below done it many times Id wack the p trap and replace it all with solvent glue all the way. small patch a little paint and done. youve got a major project going on so youll have paint and spackle on hand. no need removing tub or walls piece of cake!

 

[Nicholas Meyers]

Just wanted to say thanks for the reply Jeff. You're right, it shouldn't be a big deal to go through the ceiling. I'm just feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the work on the other bathroom, and I guess my instinct was to try to avoid more work. Thankfully I was able to get a couple of pairs of channel locks on there and rotated the tee. No leaks, thank God.

 

[Jeff H Young]

great, well you might concider changing that while work is going on if your going to use a pro to patch or do other drywall work. My house had a nasty patch in cieling in a big living room that I couldnt stand had a guy fix it . Hope project proceeds well!

 

[Reach4]

As a temporizing move, until you get actual drywall work done, you might consider putting up an access panel. Some are held in by a spring catch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...g-Loaded-Plastic-Access-Panel-APS14/204509831 seems to be an example of one of the easier ones, tho not as good as one you would want for long-term easy access. There are lots of choices.

 

[FDNY/RETIRED]

As a temporizing move, until you get actual drywall work done, you might consider putting up an access panel. Some are held in by a spring catch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...g-Loaded-Plastic-Access-Panel-APS14/204509831 seems to be an example of one of the easier ones, tho not as good as one you would want for long-term easy access. There are lots of choices.

That is what I did on a problem I was having with a Jacuzzi Bathtub. I would take a picture of it but it is behind a desk where I have the access panel from a wall in a bedroom to reach it. But I just left the panel instead of covering it back up with drywall.

Edited to say in matter of fact I intend to do that in my Boiler room ceiling over the P trap to my bathroom tub. I get problems with the bathtub. I have cut the ceiling twice in 7 yrs, This time I am putting an access panel in place. I was going to make a hatch with hinges so I can swing it down, But the access plate is a much better way to go.