Tub backsplash tiling recommendations

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Thorguy57

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Hi everyone. I’m currently in the middle of my bathroom remodel and just looking for some expert opinions on tiling the backsplash for my tub. On the front of the tub it just had material like what is currently used on the backsplash. I pulled it off and there wasn’t anything supporting it on the back. My thought was to frame up behind it with 2x4s, attach 1/4 hardibacker to it (because I have enough laying around) and tile over that. Just wondering if that sounds sufficient. Also, for the back splash it also has the same material. In behind it though they used green board. I’ve read where people say tile to it and you won’t have an issue and other places that say don’t do it. I was wondering what your thoughts on this were? It is only the backsplash on a separate tub that hardly, if ever, will see water. I want to do it correctly though. Thanks for your input.
 

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Jadnashua

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Is that a picture of the tub you want to tile or are you replacing the tub? Will the area be a tub/shower, or just a soaking tub?

The procedure differs depending on the use.

Greenboard, or moisture resistant drywall, is no longer allowed in a shower. Plus, the paper/coating on it makes it tough for thinset to bond to it.

Hardiebacker is a decent product, but requires some modified techniques to work with. First, it is VERY thirsty, and if you don't wipe it down with a wet sponge prior to applying thinset, it will suck a good portion of the moisture out of the cement prior to it starting to cure. Cement incorporates the water into its chemical structure, and won't achieve design strength (and be a pain to spread or embed a tile) if it is too dry.

If it's a wet area, you have the choice of a moisture barrier behind the material, or one on top of it, but not both. The most common is just a sheet of plastic, attached to the stud prior to the installation of the cbu. The plastic should go over the tiling flange towards the inside, so if any moisture does get there, it can flow into the tub and down the drain rather than behind the tiling flange. The alternative is to use a waterproofing on top of the cbu to keep the moisture going towards the drain. Neither tile nor grout are considered waterproofing...they are a decorative, wear surface not harmed by water.

Note, the Hardibacker instructions will note that you must keep the end of the the material off of the horizontal surface...the bottom edge cannot be where moisture could accumulate, and, you need to use an alkali resistant mesh tape on the seams to help bond the pieces together (you can do this during tile installation to help prevent speed bumps unless you're going to use a topical waterproofing). Hardie is referred to as a fiber-cement board. The fiber in it is listed as cellulose (wood fiber), and if allowed to saturate the board, could cause it to swell. Some surface applied waterproofings are Kerdi membrane, or RedGard liquid and there are others.
 

Thorguy57

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Thank you for your reply. The tub is not getting replaced. Will just be tiling the three sides for a backsplash where it is white in the picture and on the front of the tub where it is currently opened up in the pic. It won’t have a shower with it. It is strictly a soaking tub.
 

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I would probably call the James Hardie company and ask them about the best way to attach their backer to that composite material. I'm not sure their special screws will be a great idea as it will be tough to get them to countersink themselves when the material may not have enough strength for the threads to pull it down. That may mean predrilling all of the holes and maybe even countersinking them first - a pain. I would also question whether adding the water and a person (or two!) in the tub might cause a little structural deflection of the tub assembly. That could cause some slight warping of the surround. Tile do not like movement!

Note, that stuff is likely to expand and contract a fair amount with temperature changes...tile don't like that. Also, industry standards call for all changes of plane or materials to have an expansion joint. That can be one of three things:
- an actual gap
- caulk
- an engineered joint

A few companies make engineered profile joints in suitable styles. The company that has the largest variety is probably Schluter that started that whole concept decades ago in Germany. I like them since that means no caulk is needed so that you don't have to futz with replacing it eventually.

A good place to ask questions about tile is www.johnbridge.com
 
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