Toto Soiree wobbles on ceramic 13.5" tile floor

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by Robert from Stoneham, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. Robert from Stoneham

    Robert from Stoneham New Member

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    Stoneham MA
    I had a Soiree in a former home for ten years on a vinyl floor with no problems, but moved to a condo with a ceramic tile and got another Soiree. On this floor it seems to tilt and bang if I shift my weight from side to side. Because it's a skirt with a unifit rough-in and only anchored at the back, I think it's mostly a sliding problem (I put in a nylon shim and it just slides more easily, at least without anyone sitting on it). What is the best solution (preferably without having to lift the toilet)?
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Good news: no problem adding shims, because the wax will not be disturbed.

    Use composite shims from the door and window department. Cut as needed, and insert to prevent rocking. I used more shims and a level, but that is not the common thing to do.

    It is important with Unifit toilets to use caulk around the front 80 or 90% of the toilet. That is needed to prevent sliding. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/loctite-polyseamseal-formula-tub-tile-caulking.67399/

    Do not use silicone caulk. It is hard to remove if you ever have to lift the toilet.
     
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  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    I shim bowls from the back, pinning the front of the bowl down. I've been using some rubber shims made for that lately.
    Since the Soiree is open in back, you can caulk the entire base. Normally I leave a bit out at the back so that I can see a leaking seal quicker.
    In Arizona, hj likes the caulking all the way around. Is he looking at this?

     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2019
  5. Robert from Stoneham

    Robert from Stoneham New Member

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    Thanks. It seems I have a tube of that exact calk (although the label is slightly different) which I probably got ten years ago. It feels like it may still be good. I'm guessing I can loosen the bolts and put a shim under the front to make space for the calk then pull out the shim and tighten the bolts.
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    My thought is that if it wobbles/rocks now, you could probably insert and cut the shim, without loosening the bolts. I would measure to make sure the toilet is pretty square to the wall before caulking it into place. Until you caulk, I think the front can slide a bit left or right. Loosening and tightening the bolts makes sense if there is much shifting.

    See Terry's and Jamie's video that includes how an expert caulks starting at 5:44. I was very non-practiced, so I used masking tape on both edges of the caulk. I took at least 100x as long. The video in the sticky https://terrylove.com/forums/index....efg-2-piece-toilet-written-by-jamie-love.743/ thread, along with other great info.
     
  7. Robert from Stoneham

    Robert from Stoneham New Member

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    Square with the wall is the least of my problems. It is too close to the vanity. The floor slopes a bit and the front of the toilet is about 1/4" lower than the back. I've hit my elbow on the countertop while reaching for the flush handle several times. A pedestal sink would open it up, but there is no tile on the wall behind the vanity and I need some storage. I with I could move the toilet a few inches farther away, but I'm on the 3rd floor of a condo building with concrete floors. After 10 years with a washlet, the toilet was my first priority upon moving. -- they are highly addictive and "clean is happy". The video made caulking look very easy (and I even have a sponge exactly like the one he used), but it seems I have white, not clear so I guess I should buy new caulk. Since I want it to hold the toilet in place, shouldn't I try to get a bead farther under the edge than shown in the video? BTW, I liked the remote for the S300 I used to have better than the one on the S300e because all the buttons were on the front surface. I had it in a vanity drawer that pulled out right next to the toilet. The new remote has buttons on four sides. The attached photos illustrate the space problem. IMG_1072.jpg IMG_1075.jpg
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Did you position the Unifit adapter as far to the right as you could? There are slots, and if the hole in the flange is big enough, I might enlarge the slots to the left a tiny bit, with a round file, if the output would still be over the hole on the left.

    If you want to consider that, now is the time.
     
  9. Robert from Stoneham

    Robert from Stoneham New Member

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    I didn't think of that, but the flange was in very poor condition and I'd prefer not to mess with it again. I don't know the inside dimensions of the skirt vs the diameter of the Unifit flange. If I were to try it, I might also rotate it a bit and go to a 14" Unifit and get it closer to the wall (It's currently about 1-7/8" at the nearest point). Although closer to the wall might make the vanity even more intrusive.
     
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    A 14 inch Unifit would move you 2 inches farther from the wall. In https://terrylove.com/forums/index....rance-with-14-unifit-and-offset-flange.66596/ #3 I show how I used a 12 inch Unifit with about a 13 inch rough. The Unifit puts less stress on the flange, and instead keeps the toilet in place with the 4 new screws aft and the caulking in the front.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  11. Robert from Stoneham

    Robert from Stoneham New Member

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    Nope, the flange and wax seal stay in the same place, so the longer Unifit puts the back of the toilet closer to the wall.
     
  12. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    You are right, of course. I was dopey, apparently.
     
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