Toto -- help IDing and parts to fix

[das108]

Hi all:

Now dealing with the second Toto in our new house (new to us; ToMto is probably from around 2005).

Longstanding problem was that it was filling in bursts rather than smoothly, and there was clearly all sorts of sediment in the tank. Then it started running continuously a few days ago, so I shut it off till I could deal with it.

Today I emptied it. One obvious problem is that the rubber gasket at the base of the valve had mostly disintegrated, and now is leaking. (Similar problem for the bolts connecting to the base). I also found a small piece of plastic from somewhere in the tank. No idea what it broke off of. See picture:

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2hle0QCPxGWazhjUXNZbE9MY3M/view?usp=sharing]

I washed out the crud, removed and rinsed out the valve. On putting it back in, slight improvement in the "burst" issue, but not entirely. Obviously I need to replace the rubber seals/bolts because of the leaking, but should I replace the valve as well? Anything else?

I am not sure of the model. it is a 2-piece marked 620X-2302 on the back inside wall of the tank.
It has a blue-top Corky valve.

Thanks as always!

 

[WJcandee]

I can't tell you what the toilet is from that number. If you post a picture, one of us can tell you in 2 seconds what it is.

You say the rubber at the base of the valve is leaking, so you might replace the whole valve.

Get this Valve: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Korky-QuietFill-Platinum-Fill-Valve-528MCM/203145423

It works in all floor-mounted Totos. It is the most-universal one. DO NOT, REPEAT DO NOT get the white-cap one. It will fit, but it won't refill your toilet enough; it's for older toilets.

However, if you have fixed the leak, then you can just service your existing valve, where all the important functioning parts are in a little $3 cap that is replaceable. To do that:

Get this at Korky Model R528 cap online or at your local hardware store: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...CY1nSS2N6kP074zkvZUaAm2cEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Lots of the major online retailers carry it. I bought my last one at HD, but I can't find it on their web site as being in their stores. Weird. Search Google for R528.

Follow the instructions in the video below to service the fill valve. You don't need to replace the valve, just the little cap, which is likely why it is surging. Had the same problem in a hotel recently with a well-used Korky fill valve.

Instead of examining and rinsing the cap like the video says, toss it and replace it. If the thing is surging, the cap most likely needs to be replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...&feature=iv&src_vid=syJY4o90prI&v=wL8-KM_28Po

TERRY: For some reason, the site won't let me embed this YouTube video.
(this video has different code and won't post, it's a setting on Youtube that can be chosen by the owner of the video. Terry Love)

 

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[das108]

Thanks!
Here is a picture of the unit: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2hle0QCPxGWUU5Mcy0yZ0FCQU0/view?usp=sharing

 

[Terry]

The handle is a THU068-CP
Korky makes a fill valve with blue cap and with the gray cap.
The white cap doesn't have the correct bowl refill ratio.
You can also use the Fluidmaster Performax fill valve.
I'm using either Fluidmaster, or a Korky flapper on those. 3"

Korky 528T Replacement TOTO Toilet Fill Valve - Fits G-Max and Power Gravity Toilets -Easy to Install -Made in USA

 

[WJcandee]

Okay, so that's either a GMax Drake or its Power Gravity precursor (or the horrible builder grade toilet with a 2" flush valve that they made for a while that looked the same, but I'm thinking/hoping not). Given the cutaway in the tank I would put it in the Drake era. Since it has a blue valve top from that era, you can replace it with a Korky 528T (for Toto), which has the full 20 percent refill ratio. But since it's more-expensive than the silver/grey/platinum-top 528MP and all you have to do is leave the 528MP all-the-way-open on the refill adjuster to get the same effect, I would recommend the latter.

 

[das108]

I think all is fixed. New silver-top Korky installed, along with replacement rubber washers on the bolts. (Turns out there weren't any on the underside at all, and the "in-tank" ones were not in great shape.) Didn't measure, but it looked like a 3" valve, not 2". Flushes/fills normally. No surging. No leaking.

 

[WJcandee]

Congratulations! Great job!

The way it should go is bolt head and rubber washer in tank, metal washer and nut on the underside. A rubber one on the underside probably won't hurt anything, unless it reduces the pressure between the bolt head and the rubber washer, but the way I said is the way it usually goes. Many handymen insist on putting a metal washer inside the tank under the bolt head and before the rubber washer, and all that does is cause leaks. Real plumbers come and pull that metal washer out of the tank and it's fixed.

Anyway, sounds like you are all set!

 

[RSterr]

i replaced the broke handle with one I found at Home Depot. I may have the wrong size because when I flush the toilet the water rises and the flapper shuts off too quickly before the water runs down. I have to hold the handle down to allow the water to drain. Do I have the wrong handle? Does it need calibration? And why does the water rise before draining?

 

[Reach4]

i replaced the broke handle with one I found at Home Depot. I may have the wrong size because when I flush the toilet the water rises and the flapper shuts off too quickly before the water runs down. I have to hold the handle down to allow the water to drain. Do I have the wrong handle? Does it need calibration? And why does the water rise before draining?

To post a new thread:

Click Forums, which gets you to http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php

Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.

On the right, click on "Post New Thread".

Identify your toilet, and maybe add a photo of inside of your tank.

It is normal for the water level in the bowl to initially rise during the flush, before the water level drops during the flush.

 

[WJcandee]

It most likely has little to do with the handle itself.

If the flapper is shutting too quickly, a couple of possibilities. If you changed the flapper, maybe the wrong flapper; they make adjustable ones, too.

If you are using the same flapper, check the chain length. If it's too tight, the handle may pull it up so tight that it doesn't have a chance to "float" in the water for a couple of seconds like it's designed to. If too much chain slack, the handle may not pull the flapper up sufficiently high to get the air pocket to "catch" in the water and make it float.

It's amazing what a difference just a single link of chain length can make.

So look at how it's attached and play with it a little bit.

Also, where the chain connects is important. If the handle has multiple chain holes, you want the one that pulls it up straightest, generally. If it is adjustable from front to back, or bendable that way, again you want to have it more or less directly over the flapper.

You can post some pics if you want. Let us know how it goes.