Toto fitting challenge

[Navydoc]

Hello,

I recently installed a Toto Eco Drake with a 10 inch rough-in for my bathroom remodel. The clearance from the finished wall is 11.5 inches from the finished drywall to the center of the trapway. My baseboard is 0.5 inches thick. The problem is my bathroom door now hits the toilet when I try to open it fully. My installer tells me that only a 10 inch rough in will work. I have already sent back a 12 inch rough-in Toto Drake without even opening the box at considerable cost. I think that I need to "back up" my toilet about 2 inches for the door to clear. In summary, I need to : 1) accommodate a 11.5 inch rough-in and 2) gain 2 inches of clearance so that my bathroom door can swing freely. I have thought about the following options:

1) Use a Toto Vespin II with either the 10 inch or 12 inch Unifit option which I read will "move the toilet back".
2) Use a regular 12 inch rough-in Toto Drake.
3) Use an American Standard Cadet 3 round bowl with a 10 inch rough in.

With the current Toto Eco Drake 10 inch rough-in currently installed, I have 3 inches of clearance from the tank to the drywall and 1.50 inches clearance from the base of the toilet to my baseboard. Please help.

Thank You,
Ben

 

[Terry]

OMG

The C744E 12" Drake works at 10-7/8" from finished wall.
The C744EF.10 10" bowl works at 9-1/4"
The 10" bowl is shifting forward away from the wall by 2".

You need the standard 12" bowl. I don't know why you had to spend extra to send it back. There are plenty of local dealers near you.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I think that I need to "back up" my toilet about 2 inches for the door to clear.

"About 2 inches" sounds pretty imprecise for a situation like this.

Have you looked at the drawings like (at the bottom)?

https://terrylove.com/pdf/cst474cefg-specs.pdf

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....t-less-with-baseboard-and-shoe-molding.58080/ There is some clearance in the slots without making your own holes. You can move things a bit left or right too.

In reply #8 you can see how I made my own holes to best fit my situation. You may not have to go to such extremes. It took me a lot of time to measure, try, remeasure, etc.

 

[Jughead]

Hi mates pretty sure I never posted here before. I go by Jughead sometimes since Jarhead is already taken lol.

As a longtime carpenter calling myself a house mechanic I've installed five Toto toilets with no problems and recommended them to this new customer whose ceramic floor I just tiled. The tile floor came out nice and flat despite they bought it at Home Depot as though they're saving money.
The pre-mixed grout they bought was a disaster to get off though, making the joints much lower than I like. Her AC is on the blink on the second floor and I had sweat dripping off my nose. Big & nice house only 16 yo.

She ordered two Toto's online which came within three days but I noticed this hall bath I tiled had only a 10" R/I so she ordered another which came as fast. No biggie she needs the two standard 12 inchers also.

The bitch is the guys who ran the home-run Pex to the toilets left no slack and the Toto's are 1 1/4" taller. The lines won't reach. No valves except the basement manifold. I'm searching for a 7/8" male to 7/8" female fill valve extension but not finding one. Now I have to buy Pex crimpers wtf. I'm only 1 1/4" short. I'm a copper guy and adept at sweating. The big Pex manifold in the basement is corroding out since the bolts aren't quality stainless steel. Might not even be zinc. Plumbing sucks when you're working with crap

 

[CountryBumkin]

Jughead, I'm not sure I understand your problem. Are you saying the PEX tubing from the basement manifold connects directly to the toilet? There is no shutoff valve in the wall next to the toilet? If yes, then you would just need to cut the PEX and install a shutoff, then use a standard toilet flex line from shutoff to toilet.
You might need to open the wall to get the new Stop valve/PEX stub-out mounted securely to a stud, but even if the valve was just hanging an inch or so out of the wall, that would still be a better solution, IMO, than a straight run of PEX to the toilet. Of course you could also just insert a PEX coupler to add a few more inches of tubing but that is not the best solution for the homeowner, IMO, as PEX is pretty stiff and no local shutoff would make future toilet repair/work difficult.

 

[Jughead]

Jughead, I'm not sure I understand your problem. Are you saying the PEX tubing from the basement manifold connects directly to the toilet? There is no shutoff valve in the wall next to the toilet? If yes, then you would just need to cut the PEX and install a shutoff, then use a standard toilet flex line from shutoff to toilet.
You might need to open the wall to get the new Stop valve/PEX stub-out mounted securely to a stud, but even if the valve was just hanging an inch or so out of the wall, that would still be a better solution, IMO, than a straight run of PEX to the toilet. Of course you could also just insert a PEX coupler to add a few more inches of tubing but that is not the best solution for the homeowner, IMO, as PEX is pretty stiff and no local shutoff would make future toilet repair/work difficult.

View attachment 34937 View attachment 34938

Thanks CB.
Solved it this morning by crimping a new 12" white flex line that's Pex compatible using the black copper rings and a coupling. There was already some coupling work which I cut off - now there's only one with length to spare. I just cut off the 3/8's end and pushed it on the coupling with the Pex and crimped both.
There's two more toilets on hand I'll do the same with since the manifold valves in the basement are so well marked and all home runs. Also switching out a Jacuzzi and 2 vanity faucets that may require same. Access to the basement manifold valves is no problem. It helps their neighbor has the crimpers (He's a scientist).
Of note the King of Prussia Home Depot only has the stainless flex lines, Lowe's has the white Pex compatible. Had to get the 3/8's rings at US Supply.
Thanks again.