Hi everyone, I just purchased a Toto Entrada elongated toilet for installation in my new studio. A friend will be installing it but I need to provide all the items necessary for the install. So far, I have only purchased the toilet seat. Can you tell me what size/length water supply line and wax ring I should purchase?
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Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
There is no standard for how long the supply line is, and what wax ring you may need will depend on where your flange is actually installed. They are designed to be installed on TOP of the FINISHED flooring, but that does not happen all that much...often, it's deeper in the floor. Also, it's a good idea to replace the shutoff valve at the wall to be on the safe side. Those choices will depend on what kind of pipe you have, and whether the valve is soldered on, a compression fitting, or a slide-on type. You may want to replace the anchor bolts, but if the existing ones are brass or stainless steel, they MAY be worthwhile keeping...there's no standard on how thick the bottom of the toilet is, so they could be too short. If too long, you can cut them down if needed, but can't make them longer! On the supply hose, it can be a little long, and if a bit more, you can loop it, but you don't want it to be tight and under tension once installed.
Terry likes to use brass ones in a set that has two sets of nuts and washers for each bolt...then, he uses the first set to anchor the bolts to the flange, and the second ones to anchor the toilet. That keeps them upright and not bending over while trying to install the toilet.
Code calls for sealing the toilet around the front 3/4'ers of the toilet to make it more sanitary (i.e., prevent dribbles, mop water, etc., from getting underneath where it's hard to clean). You don't want to use silicone caulk for that, but one that's easier to remove when the time comes.
Without at least some pictures and additional info, can't say for sure.
Terry likes to use brass ones in a set that has two sets of nuts and washers for each bolt...then, he uses the first set to anchor the bolts to the flange, and the second ones to anchor the toilet. That keeps them upright and not bending over while trying to install the toilet.
Code calls for sealing the toilet around the front 3/4'ers of the toilet to make it more sanitary (i.e., prevent dribbles, mop water, etc., from getting underneath where it's hard to clean). You don't want to use silicone caulk for that, but one that's easier to remove when the time comes.
Without at least some pictures and additional info, can't say for sure.
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A 16" supply can always be used. Sometimes a 12" will work too.
You would need to purchase an assortment, unless most-probable is good enough. Most probably, the stop valve would have a 3/8 "compression" thread out of the valve.
Replacing the stop valve while replacing the toilet is often a good idea. At least check that your current stop valve works to stop the water. Close the valve, flush the toilet, and make sure the tank does not refill until you open the valve back up.
Thank you, Jim.
Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. Maybe the best thing to do is let my installer take a look at everything and figure out what kind of wax ring to get and how long a supply line I need. I have a home improvement store nearby, so getting the items is not a problem.
