Toilet Removal - Rusted Flange - Subfloor Chipped

[JLB7]

We finally decided to replace our cruddy toilets and we set to work. Once we got to the flange we realized it was too far gone and had to go. It was not hard to remove, thats how bad it was. The immediate subfloor is chipped though and if we added a new flange I don’t know what I could attach it to. I pressed a few inches out and the floor still feels secure, it doesn't feel unsteady. Prior to this it wasn't wobbly or causing leaks, it was just so gross from the previous owners neglect. This is a 2nd floor toilet with tile flooring. I am very beginner DIY so as much help as possible would be greatly appreciated. I will attach a few pictures as well of what we have been left with.

Can we grout the area or fill it with something so that a new flange could attach securely?

 

[Reach4]

What is that white thing?

Vacuum up the loose stuff.

Wood subfloor under there?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JLB7]

What is that white thing?

Vacuum up the loose stuff.

Wood subfloor under there?

I do have some wood subfloor under there but it doesn't go right to the pipe (haven't fully cleaned the area yet).

It looks like they may have used an extender piece in here already. Here are a few more pictures if this helps.

 

[Reach4]

What is the OD of that white plastic? 5 inches or so? Maybe that had a metal ring around it, and that rusted away. You might be able to use a repair ring to make that work. You would build things up under where the repair ring would go.

It looks like there may be two ports on the bottom of that plastic. Is that the case? If you run the shower or lavatory, do you see water running down that hole?

 

[JLB7]

What is the OD of that white plastic? 5 inches or so? Maybe that had a metal ring around it, and that rusted away. You might be able to use a repair ring to make that work. You would build things up under where the repair ring would go.

It looks like there may be two ports on the bottom of that plastic. Is that the case? If you run the shower or lavatory, do you see water running down that hole?

You are correct, there was a metal ring around the white plastic piece the OD is 5.5inches. What products do you suggest to repair the ring and build things up under the repair ring?

You are also correct about the 2 ports. The sink is to the right and when I used that I saw water running through the pipe.

I appreciate your quick responses!

 

[Reach4]

What products do you suggest to repair the ring

Harvey's 014710 is stainless split repair ring.
PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are painted repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

Sioux Chief 886-MRM is a split repair ring. May be galvanized. Not sure.
Oatey 42777 Moss Bay is a split repair ring. Split repair rings can go under plastic edge. Seems to be galvanized, even tho some places say stainless.

Maybe, since you are going to fix the leaking through, galvanized or painted would survive just fine.

DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. Its like a repair ring plus a waxless ring combined. Wax goes under it and above the plastic.

and build things up under the repair ring?

I am less sure there. Dig out soft wood. Do you need carpentry? Can you make the rotted wood stronger with something from https://www.rotdoctor.com/? Or can just fill the space with mortar after digging out and drying out the worst of the rotted wood? I think I might go for fiber-filled mortar. That is not based on experience, tho I did use fiber filled mortar once when putting in a sump for a basement. Let's see if there are more suggestions after you clean out what you can and post a new photo.

The best thing to do would be to go into the crawl space and make it all right. That would not be simple. But it may work just fine for many years if you just repair.

 

[JLB7]

Harvey's 014710 is stainless split repair ring.
PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are painted repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

Sioux Chief 886-MRM is a split repair ring. May be galvanized. Not sure.
Oatey 42777 Moss Bay is a split repair ring. Split repair rings can go under plastic edge. Seems to be galvanized, even tho some places say stainless.

Maybe, since you are going to fix the leaking through, galvanized or painted would survive just fine.

DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. Its like a repair ring plus a waxless ring combined. Wax goes under it and above the plastic.


I am less sure there. Dig out soft wood. Do you need carpentry? Can you make the rotted wood stronger with something from https://www.rotdoctor.com/? Or can just fill the space with mortar after digging out and drying out the worst of the rotted wood? I think I might go for fiber-filled mortar. That is not based on experience, tho I did use fiber filled mortar once when putting in a sump for a basement. Let's see if there are more suggestions after you clean out what you can and post a new photo.

The best thing to do would be to go into the crawl space and make it all right. That would not be simple. But it may work just fine for many years if you just repair.

I was also looking at the DANCO hydroseat as they seems to be a crowd pleaser. They seem to install it on a flange which I don't have installed anymore, do you think I would still need to install on or the lip of the current white piece would serve as that? I also wonder if it would add too much height to the flange height/floor. Might be one of those things we have to test out to see.

This is on the 2nd floor, above my kitchen (which would be fun if this doesn't work out) so I don't have a crawl space area to take a peak at.

I have a fan on the area now to make sure if there is any moisture, it dries. Then I can fully clean out the area and send a picture again.

 

[Reach4]

I was also looking at the DANCO hydroseat as they seems to be a crowd pleaser. They seem to install it on a flange which I don't have installed anymore, do you think I would still need to install on or the lip of the current white piece would serve as that?

I think you could install over what you have.

I also wonder if it would add too much height to the flange height/floor.

The device is designed to fit toilets best when the bottom of the feet are at the same height as what the toilet sits on. So you would build that up. I don't know how much higher the top of the Hydroseat will be above the floor. Maybe 5/8? It is designed to not have wax on top, but it seems to me you could put a little wax on top if you felt there was a gap that might need to be closed.

There would not be much force on your plastic. You would have mortar or whatever under the plastic. The lifting and sliding action from the toilet would be carried by the screws holding the Hydroseat to the floor. There are 8 holes you could use to hold the Hydroseat into place. Usually you would just use the 4 holes on the feet or the other four holes. Yet you could use all 8 if you preferred.

You might add some wood reinforcement to help hold screws. You could also consider some kind of anchors.

 

[Jadnashua]

It appears that there's not much thickness left of the subflooring around the flange. That means, there's very little to screw the repair ring to. That also means, it won't be very secure.

It might be a pain, but with the irregular surface that's left, the better solution might be to attack it from below which could mean removing some kitchen cabinets and ceiling. Cut out the rotten subflooring, attach some blocking or cleats and install something that will be able to hold the new ring. Depending on how the pipe runs, you might cut it off and install a new flange. The proper position for the flange is on top of the finished flooring. You could do that in plywood as you probably don't have any matching tile, and as long as the base of the toilet covers it, it's not going to matter. If you do cut it off, pick up a new flange that has a SS ring on it, not an all plastic one, or one with a painted metal steel ring...they just don't last.

If you own a router, you might be able to make a jig, flatten the surface, then laminate a new piece of plywood on top, but my guess is it isn't really very thick, and that might not work. I'd be tempted to take a small drill and get an idea of how much is left first. If you have an awl, I'd poke at it to see if it's easy to just go right through.