Toilet Flange to Thick @ 1/2" for a Correct Install?

Users who are viewing this thread

Beerski

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
08844
Ironically, I appear to have a toilet flange that was properly installed on the finished tile floor (back in 1989??!!). My quandary is the top of the flange is 1/2" above the floor, exceeding the 3/8" to a 1/4" height standard. Measuring the toilet clearance (TOTO) this leaves about about 1/4" of wax gasket squish clearance (assuming a standard 1" thick gasket). Doesn't sound good enough. Should I worry about this, if the toilet sits level right on the floor?
It surprising to see that every replacement flange I've found is 1/2" high when it is properly installed on the finished floor.
1) I've searched in here and I've seen a discussion about the problem, but I didn't see a specific model recommendation that meets the requirement. Can you recommend a specific stainless steel model - less that 1/2" tall - that can get me to the correct height?
2) Should I use the horn in the gasket? Considering the lack of squish space, I am concerned about wax squeezing and obstructing the drain.
3) Do I need to put a gasket below the new lower flange? The additional height would kind of defeat the purpose.
3) Do I really need to reinstall a new flange incorrectly below the final surface to get this right? Kinda weird.
Thanks,
Beerski
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,797
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
1. 1/16 is plenty of space. You just don't want an interference fit.
2. No horn.
3a. Unclear. Are you saying that the bottom of the plastic ring is higher than the floor under it? Are there screws holding the ring down?
3b. Probably not. How about a photo. Note, it is usually better remove the rag in the hole for a closet flange photo, tho that probably does not matter for this purpose.
 

Beerski

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
08844
1. 1/16 is plenty of space. You just don't want an interference fit.
2. No horn.
3a. Unclear. Are you saying that the bottom of the plastic ring is higher than the floor under it? Are there screws holding the ring down?
3b. Probably not. How about a photo. Note, it is usually better remove the rag in the hole for a closet flange photo, tho that probably does not matter for this purpose.
Hi Reach4,
Please is photos attached. The toilet flange sits on top of the tile..... the top being .5" from the tile floor surface.
I measured the inside of the toilet base and the bottom is flush with the integral raised ceramic ring and that measures .7" high.
Thanks for the quick response.
Beerski
 

Attachments

  • RING-1.jpg
    RING-1.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 145
  • RING-2.jpg
    RING-2.jpg
    89.9 KB · Views: 142

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,797
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
When using wax, try the toilet first without the wax. See if there I any wiggle or rocking that you can do. If there is, put shims in place, to stop the rocking, mark the positions, and lift the toilet. Drop the wax onto the closet flange. Make sure the shims are positioned, and then drop the toilet.
 

Beerski

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
08844
When using wax, try the toilet first without the wax. See if there I any wiggle or rocking that you can do. If there is, put shims in place, to stop the rocking, mark the positions, and lift the toilet. Drop the wax onto the closet flange. Make sure the shims are positioned, and then drop the toilet.
OK, I will give it a shot. Thanks!!!
 

SAS

Member
Messages
324
Reaction score
12
Points
18
Location
Connecticut
It sounds as if the real experts have already provided you with a solution, but my two cents (from a DIYer, not an expert) is to use the Korky Wax Free Seal Kit. I've installed at least 4 toilets using it, and it is very forgiving with regard to flange height. Also, for the DIY installer, it allows you to move the toilet if you fail to drop it onto the flange bolts in the correct position. For a flange greater than 1/2 inch above the floor you simply remove one of the foam rings from the kit. I had to do that on one of the toilets in my new house, and it worked perfectly.
 

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
I have the exact same situation going on.

The only solution is shims?
Shims are used to prevent rocking or movement of the toilet after its set on the floor.
When using wax, try the toilet first without the wax. See if there I any wiggle or rocking that you can do. If there is, put shims in place, to stop the rocking, mark the positions, and lift the toilet. Drop the wax onto the closet flange. Make sure the shims are positioned, and then drop the toilet.

You may also use shims to lift the toilet up to prevent interference between the flange and the toilet if the flange and toilet contact each other resting on the floor. So long as there is wax between the two, you will create a seal.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks