Toilet flange replacement help

Users who are viewing this thread

Timmers

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
Sorry for this basic question, I’m sure it’s been answered before, but I’m new to this forum so looking for help with an issue I’ve run into while preparing to tile my bathroom floor.

Due to prior, unrepaired water damage I’ve elected to replace a section of subfloor before I proceed. I cut off the flange to remove the flooring and a 4x3 flange (Nibco w/ steel flange) but I realize now that the fit may not be the best. I appears the overlap of the flange into the 3” socket will only be about 1/2” due to the elbow sitting slightly under the joist height and the tile stackup (estimate 7/8” w”/ thinset, 1/4” hardy + tile).

Is a 1/2” overlap acceptable and up to code? I suppose not, so what would be the recommended workaround here? Since I have the floor up, I could cut off the elbow and replace with a closet elbow. Or is there an easier solution? I could try a 4-3 reducer with a 4” flange but I expect I would then have the flange too high. Or a flange with a longer neck? The NIBCO flange I have measures 2 3/4” tall and I haven’t seen any longer in that size.

Thanks for your help!
 

Attachments

  • 799B8999-433C-4F49-A29F-971FC938C63A.jpeg
    799B8999-433C-4F49-A29F-971FC938C63A.jpeg
    106 KB · Views: 145

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
3" ABS goes into the fitting 1.5"
I would pick up a few different fittings and closet flanges and see what combination works best there. You do have it open at least.
 

Timmers

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
Thanks, I did look more and found a lower profile flange that I think gives enough room for me. I’ll use a 3” to span from the elbow hub to the flange.

I do have a couple other questions now though. I noticed the old flange was not flat to the floor, the line is tilted maybe 1/2” per ft which I expect is correct, but the elbow is also tipped slightly so the flange sits off maybe 3/8”-1/2” in the worst direction. Do I mount my 3” adapter square to the elbow hub (and just force the flange down when I screw it in), or will there be enough play in the hub to glue the adapter on at an angle so it will sit square to the floor?

I cut out the rest of the old flange, but some small pieces of the plastic and adhesive remain. How clean do I need to get it before I can clean/glue the adapter on? I have Oatey cleaner & abs cement, I just want to make sure I do any other prep before I start.

Finally, I notice the drain line seems to be free to rotate about the wall vertical drain/vent. It’s not super loose but I am able to rotate it by pulling on the elbow. Is this okay? I’ve attached an image of the stack where it meets the wall. Haven’t noticed any leaks previously, but just want to get some feedback before I close up the floor.

Thanks!
-first time diy plumbing
 

Attachments

  • 4D97FF17-CFBA-449A-BEB4-33FF9799B208.jpeg
    4D97FF17-CFBA-449A-BEB4-33FF9799B208.jpeg
    110.8 KB · Views: 129
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks