Toilet flange install issue

[Mark Garrenton]

The contractor poured my concrete shop floor without placing foam around the toilet 3" pvc drain pipe. I had to drill and chip to get clearance for toilet flange to slip over. The pvc pipe suffered some gouging in the process. In a moment of stupidity I cut that pipe a bit short. The flange lip engages a out 5/8" to 3/4" with the pipe. I placed a short piece of 3" pipe into the flange to take up space. The pieces were primed and a heavy coat of solvent applied before seating the flange. I then used more solvent, 2 or 3 times, around the inside of the joint to fill any gaps. The flange was secured using 1/4"-1 3/4" tapcon screws. Does anyone see an issue with this install?

 

[Reach4]

If it's done, I would use it. It is very unlikely to have a leak. If that has a plastic flange, go easy on the tightening. Do use Polyseamseal or other good acrylic caulk. That helps keep the bowl in place. If the plastic breaks, there can maybe be a repair flange fix.

Before you glued, there could have been other alternatives, but they might have involved some more concrete chipping.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

5/8 inch isnt a lot but should hold too late now but a diferant ring might had been available a deeper one. plus you got it screwed down. bolts dont need to be super tight bowl should sit stable shim to eliminate rocking caulk it good and keep those big buts off it for a couple days ha ha youll be fine ! Good Day

 

[Mark Garrenton]

Thanks for the input. Yeah, I considered chipping out the concrete to the dirt (about 4.5") and installing a 3" coupler to effectively start new. Worse case is I end up doing just that.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks for the input. Yeah, I considered chipping out the concrete to the dirt (about 4.5") and installing a 3" coupler to effectively start new. Worse case is I end up doing just that.

It sounde like you got it fixed ring secure to floor should be ok