Toilet Flange Height on New Tile

[Jake12]

I retiled a bathroom and the existing flange is 1/4" below the new tile surface. The existing (ABS) flange is in good shape and screwed to subfloor. I visited my local plumbing supply counter and he said I should use a flange extension to increase height.

The one he gave me (Bruco Plumbmaster) did not fit flush to the surface so I went back in. He said cut off the little lip. Did that and it still rocks on the flange. There is about a 1/4" raised face (1/16" high) ring around the inside edge of the existing flange face which is causing the extension to rock on the flange. I don't feel comfortable screwing that to the flange as it seems it could leak or even break due to the poor seating on existing flange.

I went back today and showed him a picture of the ring and he said "oh that's part of the test plug you just need to knock that out". Looking at it it sure seems to be integral to the flange and I'd hate to start banging on it and completely damage the flange.

I'm posting as I'm torn as to what the best next step is. I've read that I may not need the extension and could just use an extra thick wax ring or possibly two rings. But I've read other comments that two rings is not a good idea.

Is that part of the test plug and I can knock it out without damaging the entire flange? Is that the best option?

I've reset several toilets over the years and did have one that leaked a little but 3 out of 4 ain't bad. This one is over a finished first floor so very difficult to check for leaks. Want to do it right the first time.

I've posted pictures to help. Appreciate some guidance as I'm getting frustrated not knowing if the guy at the plumbing shop is giving me complete advise. He seems to be a newer guy vs the guys that used to work there.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, the design location of the toilet flange is on TOP of the finished floor, and tightly attached to it, not recessed, not even with the finished floor.

Having said that, there are millions of installs that look like yours. The most common way to resolve it is to use two wax rings. Terry suggests you use one with a plastic horn, and one without, using the one with the horn on top. The horn then helps to keep the second one aligned. When you install the toilet (put the wax rings on the flange, not on the bottom of the toilet), if you need to press the toilet down, you'll have made a good seal. If it goes down without having to smush the wax, you may need a jumbo on the bottom.

Plumbers dislike the all-plastic toilet flanges...you need to be really careful about tightening the bolts or you'll distort the flange, and it can eventually break. It can break if someone falls against the toilet, too. You should not use the nut to pull the toilet down...press down on the toilet with your weight until it is on the floor, then snug up the nuts. Read the sticky above on how to install the toilet. Over tile, and technically on any install, you should caulk around the toilet. This will also help to hold it in place as well as seal it from crud getting underneath.

If you do decide to use an extender...you'd either use cement to bond it to the existing flange, use some silicon, or use some wax between it and the flange to make a seal.

 

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[Jake12]

Thank you for the detailed response. You've confirmed the way I was leaning after researching other similar issues on this forum. Trying to incorporate the extender seems to introduce the potential weak points as you describe.

 

[Jake12]

Decided to continue my thread from a few years ago since it’s the same subject and want to refer to advice previously given.
I’ve set 5 toilets on new tile and each one brought its own set of existing challenges.
Now I’m helping my son on his remodel and I’ve told him he has the perfect situation with open access in the basement below. So I want to help him with the best install possible. The house is 50 years old and flange doesn’t look the best plus would be below the finish surface so I told him let’s cut it out and do it right. It’s ABS

it’s a wood subfloor and plan to lay CBU and then tile

So I understand as stated above it needs to be on top of finished floor (tile). Plus firmly attached.

That’s my first question... what are the options to attach? Drill through tile I assume but that seems challenging to not crack tile? Any other options?

Which flange do you recommend I use as a replacement?

Seem like basic questions but the more I search the more opinions and confusion I see. You Tube is even worse. So came to the trusted source.

Thanks in advance

 

[Terry]

You can also install with the spacers under the flange.

Most of the time I see the flange lower than the finished floor here. For that I stack two wax rings or a thick ring.

In this picture I used the spacer to raise the flange to a single wax install. They didn't have those spacers when I started plumbing.

 

[wwhitney]

That’s my first question... what are the options to attach? Drill through tile I assume but that seems challenging to not crack tile? Any other options?

I would suggest using a closet flange with an integral stainless flange. You can have it on hand to determine the clearances required when setting the cement board and the tile. Once the cement board is down, you can mark the required locations for screws into the wood subfloor. Then when laying out the tile, put a clearance u-notch in the edge of the tiles over the screw locations. This is easier to do before the tile is set, so you can use a grinder/wet saw, rather than a drill.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jake12]

Excellent. Sounds like good plan

thanks

 

[Jake12]

We replaced the flange and now have it on top of finished tile floor
Question on wax ring
Standard or with plastic horn?

reading on here, sounds like avoid plastic horn but in one of the videos it looked like they may have used a plastic horn style.
Thank you.