Toilet drain / vent for new bathroom

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Jeff_Bathroom

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Do these look ok?

Hi guys,
photo 5 shows the drain config for the garage utility sink and the
pedestal sink which is on the wall opposite the garage sink and up about
three feet higher. The diagonal pipe is the drain for the pedestal sink.
1. Is it ok to run at a slight angle like that to connect to the util drain line?

Photo 6 shows the 2" drain further down in the photo that I want to connect these two sinks with using a 2" to 1 1/2" sanitary T.
2. Is that ok ?

Photo 7 shows the drain config for the "inside" utility sink.
3. Does that look ok?

Photo 9 shows the vent for that same inside utility sink. I made the 90 degree turn to get the vent more in the middle due to nails that I had to cut through in the first stud. That turn is above the high water mark.
4. That ok too ?

Sorry so many questions at once.
 

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Jeff_Bathroom

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I'm going to answer my own question. Those should not be
sanitary Tee's. I didn't realize that a sanitary tee is used only
for horizontal drain connection to vertical pipe. Oh well, at least
I didn't glue yet. I'm getting really good at sawing that pipe though. :D

I haven't seen a combo Y 1/8 bend where the connections are
of different sizes. Only ones I find at HD or Lowes are of same pipe diameter.
Can I use a Y w/ separate 1/8 bend like I did w/ the toilet vent ?
Or is it preferable to use a reducer piece ?
 

Terry

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That fittng where the waste line drops into the horizontal should be a wye or combination fitting.
Basicly a wye and 45.

They have reducing wyes, but if not, it's okay to use the fitting reducers.

Where is the vent for the lav?

That will need to be tied in on the next floor at 6" above the flood level of that fixture.
Most of the time, it would be something like 42" from the floor of the next story.
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Hi Terry,
thanks, I'll replace those two sanitary tee's.
You're right; in photo 5, the vent for the garage util sink is not yet installed (in the photo). That vent connects to the lavaratory vent at least 6" above
the high water mark as you suggest. I'll send a photo of that vent config tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks for checking this out...
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Good; I was going to keep those as is. I didn't get a chance to
work on that last night since I had to put in a gfci outlet that had
to be moved due to new location of utility sink. Learned some though;
I had no idea there were line and load wires. Scary huh?
Anyway, now the garage door and sprinkler systems are working again. :)
 

Jadnashua

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Not all (but most) gfci outlets have load out lines. Make sure that the input is on the line side, and only things you want to be protected by the gfci on the load side, or a tripped gfci will kill everything downstream as well.
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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gfci

Thanks Jadnashua for the info.
I do plan to put one of the new bathroom's outlets downstream
of that gfci so that it is protected and so I can use a regular-looking
outlet in the bathroom.
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Can long-sweep 90's be used for vent turn?

Hi,
The length of these 90's just worked out well for the bend I needed.
I know I can't use a vent 90 for drains, but hoped this was ok.
 

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Jeff_Bathroom

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The drain config for garage util sink and bathroom lav

I removed the sanitary T from being on its back.
Please see new config for the garage util sink and bathroom lavatory
sink. Photo S35...3.

And Terry asked about the vent for these. Please see S35...2. Does this
all look ok now?
 

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Jeff_Bathroom

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Drain for inside util sink

I replaced the san T that I had used on it's back (no no).
Is this config good now ?
 

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Jeff_Bathroom

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original washer trap - need fixing ?

From what I've read, I think the way the trap for the washer
is set up (originally) might not be ok when the inspector gets here.
Doesn't this trap have to be up in the wall rather than below the washer ?
If so, do you all think the inspector will give me grief about it?
 

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Jeff_Bathroom

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Questions - last four threads

Hi,
I posted several questions in separate replies. The
first starts at: "Can long-sweep 90's be used for vent turn? " above,
if anyone has a moment. Thanks.
 

Terry

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The last few pictures posted look good except the last one on the washer drain.
Below the floor of the washer fixture is a no-no.
The standpipe starts getting too long and will siphon.
It's hard to say what the inspector will do.

Long sweeps can be used anywhere.
I never even buy "vent" 90's
They cost more and you can't use them as many places.


I do buy a lot more of the low dollar med 90's for that.
They replace everything except a long sweep.
 

SteveW

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What about the pic on post #32? Doesn't seem right to go up in diameter.

Right or wrong?
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Thanks Terry.

You're comment about long sweeps being used everywhere makes
sense because both Lowes and HD seem not to carry many vent elbows
or true vent T's.

I hope the photo in thread 32 is ok. I couldn't find a 3" x 1.5" combo y
if that's what you call it.

Thanks for your help !
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Q about capping off existing copper feed

I'll be getting to the supply part of this job soon.
I have two existing copper pipes in the new bathroom
that were previously for the old utility sink.
I'm trying to avoid sweating the copper fittings or getting
involved with any of that torch stuff. Not to say I couldn't
do it. But, my plan is to use the Watts Waterpex push on fittings
to connect the existing copper to manifold then to the fixtures.

Question is: to get those old copper supplies cut out, can I use
one of the waterpex fittings on the end of where I cut it. The fitting
is one with a valve. I was hoping to just clean up the cuts w/
some emory cloth and shove those fittings on there w/ the valves
closed. Thing I'm not sure of is since the waterpex fitting has a 1/2"
connection on other side of the valve, is it expected that there must be
a pipe connected to the other end of the fitting. In other words, can that
fitting just end there with the valve closed, or is it expected that a pipe be connected on the other end to provide force to keep the fitting connected on other other side, if you know what I mean?
 

Jeff_Bathroom

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Opinions ?

I've read that you all approve of the push-on pex connectors.
I wondered if my idea above was ok. Just push one on w/ a valve to terminate an existing copper line after cut?
 

Jadnashua

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I'd much prefer to solder a cap on the unused lines. PEX pushon connector? There are pex connections you push in, but you have to then add a crimp ring. In fact, usually, you have to use the expander tool to allow the connection to push in first. There are compression connection for pex that use internal stainless steel sleeves to support the tubing when compressed by the connector. Not sure what you have...
 
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