Toilet drain pipe not lining up with stack

[MarkLevinson1]

Hi,

I am at the stage of my bathroom remodel where I need to install the drain for the toilet. I am starting to dry fit parts and I have an issue with the pvc pipe lining up with my adapter for attaching to the main stack. You can see in the second image I am off by about 3". I did pick up an offset flange but I am not sure I want to deal with having to increase the size of the hole in the newly finished floor as well as the increased potential clogging that may occur with that offset flange? So what would be the best combo of connectors or otherwise for this situation? Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

The rubber thing you show in your photos is not allowed. A Fernco donut would be.

I understand that is not the question you asked.

Could you take out that piece of cast iron to give you more room to transition? Nice paint job on the cast iron.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

On the vertical WC drain, you can use a bend (22.5 or 45, probably 22.5) and then a long turn 90 to turn horizontal. The bend would be in the plane perpendicular to the line of the cast iron. That way the long turn 90 can still put the drain parallel to the cast iron.

The vertically higher the bend, the more jog you will get compared to no bend (given that the long turn 90 outlet is at a fixed height). I think a 22.5 degree bend fairly high in the joist bay will work out for you. If a 22.5 at the top of the joist bay still doesn't get you enough jog, then switch to a 45 degree bend, which will end up much lower vertically for a given amount of jog.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[MarkLevinson1]

Hey there Reach4,

I do have a rubber donut ready to go also. Do you know why the rubber coupling shown is not allowed? I suppose I could cut the cast iron if needed. You like that paint job? Came with the house, thrown in for free!

Wayne,

Does jog = wiggle room?

thanks,

Mark

 

[wwhitney]

Do you know why the rubber coupling shown is not allowed?

An above grade coupling is about 2" long and fully shielded. See, e.g., Fernco Proflex or Mission Band-Seal. Below grade couplings are around 4" long and may or may not be shielded.

Does jog = wiggle room?

Jog = change in location from a baseline case. As in, if you just put a long turn 90 on the vertical and point parallel to the cast iron (not directly at your cut end), you'll be about 3" off from hitting the cast iron (per your estimate and the picture). So you need to jog it 3". By putting the extra bend higher up in the vertical (and in the plane perpendicular to the line of the cast iron), then you'll effect a jog after the long turn 90.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

just put 2 45s or a street and regular 45 and roll into that hole in the floor. super easy !

 

[Reach4]

I am suspecting three 45s, and no 90, could do it.