Toilet cracked along bolt

[JordanA]

Thank you in advance

While cleaning the toilet, we noticed a small amount of water coming from the bottom front of the toilet when flushed. The front bottom of the toilet was heavily caulked with silicone.

I removed the toilet and replaced the wax ring. I pushed down using body weight. I put the bolts on not using much pressure and got them snug so they did not turn easily. Added two shims to the front as the floor seemed to slope to the front which is why that’s where we saw the leak.

We left it uncaulked for the time being and when I sat on it this morning it cracked around the bolt.

What did I do wrong? How do I prevent this from happening again?

 

[JordanA]

For the wax ring, I did use an extra thick one with the black plastic piece on the bottom. The flange sits below the floor line

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

The toilet has to be replaced

Deep seal wax gasket

Fluidmaster 7513 Extra Thick Wax Toilet Bowl Gasket with Flange,

 

[JordanA]

Thank you, Sylvan

I don’t disagree with toilet replacement. I need to understand why this happened and how to prevent it. I don’t want another broken toilet

 

[James Henry]

That's pretty weird, I've never had that happen. Look at the piece where it broke to see if it was a clean break or is it discolored.

 

[Jeff H Young]

toilet wasent bearing down evenly, if you have a castiron flang that sits high and hits toilet that could be reason too.
next time add shims befor putting wax test fitting it dont let toilet span a long distance

 

[JordanA]

Thank you for the responses!

The flange is not cast iron. When I removed the toilet there were no shims and only added them as the floor looked uneven.

From what I saw this morning, it looked like a clean break. No discoloration

 

[Jeff H Young]

toilet must me hitting hard on that area . when you lifted front it put more weight on the back then you sat on it. perfect storm so to speak

 

[JordanA]

toilet must me hitting hard on that area . when you lifted front it put more weight on the back then you sat on it. perfect storm so to speak

Thank you, Jeff. Is the recommendation to not use shims for the front? It just seems like such a big gap. Perhaps use silicone to balance the weight?

 

[JordanA]

Thank you, Jeff. Is the recommendation to not use shims for the front? It just seems like such a big gap. Perhaps use silicone to balance the weight?

Before adding the shims I did not have a wobble. I only added them as I worried the front was not supported and would lead to another problem

 

[Jeff H Young]

uneven floor contributes to this type problem . if it was totally flat it wouldn't break , in 99.9 percent cases it could be a 1 in a 1000 but doubt it

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

OK.. To address the question of how to not break the replacement. Before setting on wax, Add the shims in the front and another set nearer the bolts to get it level and stable. Ensure the shims won't move either by taping them to the floor outside the footprint or a dab of caulk under them if they're inset under the bowl. Then lift the toilet to set it down on your wax. Now you should have a stable base where the nose is not leveraging against the bolts/flange and the flat bolt down area is supported underneath as well.

 

[JordanA]

OK.. To address the question of how to not break the replacement. Before setting on wax, Add the shims in the front and another set nearer the bolts to get it level and stable. Ensure the shims won't move either by taping them to the floor outside the footprint or a dab of caulk under them if they're inset under the bowl. Then lift the toilet to set it down on your wax. Now you should have a stable base where the nose is not leveraging against the bolts/flange and the flat bolt down area is supported underneath as well.

Thank you for the detailed approach!

With putting the shims down ahead of the toilet, how do I account for how deep the shims are inserted?

 

[Reach4]

My understanding is to place the toilet with no shims. Place shims. Mark or tape where they go. Then lift the toilet, drop the wax, and drop the toilet.

Acrylic caulk, such as PolySeamSeal, improves the appearance, blocks water flow from outside, and actually adds some structural support against sliding to the side. The Toto toilets with the Unifit rely on that, because the toilet only gets secured at the aft end, and the caulk prevents the toilet front from sliding caused by moderate forces.

There are places that bed the base of a toilet with plaster of Paris or mortar or grout. Not a lot of places, but there are adherents.

In this case of the cracked toilet, it may be the nuts were over-tightened. Was this toilet giving you nice plunger-free flushes? If not, this might work out for the best. New toilets seldom need a plunger.

 

[JordanA]

My understanding is to place the toilet with no shims. Place shims. Mark or tape where they go. Then lift the toilet, drop the wax, and drop the toilet.

Acrylic caulk, such as PolySeamSeal, improves the appearance, blocks water flow from outside, and actually adds some structural support against sliding to the side. The Toto toilets with the Unifit rely on that, because the toilet only gets secured at the aft end, and the caulk prevents the toilet front from sliding caused by moderate forces.

There are places that bed the base of a toilet with plaster of Paris or mortar or grout. Not a lot of places, but there are adherents.

In this case of the cracked toilet, it may be the nuts were over-tightened. Was this toilet giving you nice plunger-free flushes? If not, this might work out for the best. New toilets seldom need a plunger.

Sadly the broken toilet was a Toto and seldom had to use a plunger on it. I tightened the nuts so they were tight but never cranked them excessively.

I need to look into Toto unifit because when I placed and secured it I did not recaulk the bottom. My intent was to leave it open to check for leaks then seal it a week later if no leaks. In place of the caulk seal, I used shims in the front

 

[JordanA]

Sadly the broken toilet was a Toto and seldom had to use a plunger on it. I tightened the nuts so they were tight but never cranked them excessively.

I need to look into Toto unifit because when I placed and secured it I did not recaulk the bottom. My intent was to leave it open to check for leaks then seal it a week later if no leaks. In place of the caulk seal, I used shims in the front

After looking into unifit, my Toto did not have that. I don’t think it was meant to

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

We use the soft wedge shaped shims and insert them to lift and support the toilet as I go. If there is a big gap on the front (if the floor around the flange is the high point) I insert 2 shims on either side of the front and then near the bolts to aid in tipping/stability.

I really like the unifit / adapters for toilets. I wish they all would be that style universally. You can visually see and feel the adapter seal with the wax before setting the toilet. And then you can actually shim the toilet afterwards since it will still be sealed in the unifit adapter.

 

[JordanA]

We use the soft wedge shaped shims and insert them to lift and support the toilet as I go. If there is a big gap on the front (if the floor around the flange is the high point) I insert 2 shims on either side of the front and then near the bolts to aid in tipping/stability.

I really like the unifit / adapters for toilets. I wish they all would be that style universally. You can visually see and feel the adapter seal with the wax before setting the toilet. And then you can actually shim the toilet afterwards since it will still be sealed in the unifit adapter.

I appreciate all the help!

How does one measure the level of a toilet? Is it as straightforward as using a level and placing it on the bowl (without the seat on) and getting the bubble in the middle both front to back and left to right?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I appreciate all the help!

How does one measure the level of a toilet? Is it as straightforward as using a level and placing it on the bowl (without the seat on) and getting the bubble in the middle both front to back and left to right?

Essentially yes. But as I've learned in construction, not everything needs or wants to be level nor can everything be made level. In the case of a toilet, its how it feels when you sit on it. Close to level is going to be close enough for it to feel like you're not falling one way or pitching forward. Porcelain products are never perfect to begin with, so level measured at the front of the bowl might be different than across the center or back..

 

[Reach4]

After looking into unifit, my Toto did not have that. I don’t think it was meant to
With a Unifit, the closet bolts are hidden by the toilet skirt.
How does one measure the level of a toilet? Is it as straightforward as using a level and placing it on the bowl (without the seat on) and getting the bubble in the middle both front to back and left to right?
Normally you don't. But I did and used a level on the rim on two axis. If I paid myself by the hour, it would be expensive.

I really like the unifit / adapters for toilets. I wish they all would be that style universally. You can visually see and feel the adapter seal with the wax before setting the toilet. And then you can actually shim the toilet afterwards since it will still be sealed in the unifit adapter.
A soft shim sounds weird to me, but a lot of people seem to like them. I cut up composite door/window shims.