Tips on installing pedestal sink

Users who are viewing this thread

James23912

Member
Messages
109
Reaction score
7
Points
18
Location
Vermont
Hi I am about to start installing a used pedestal sink, I know the basics of a sink install but don't know the specifics of what order to do this thing.

one technical need is what to use to transition from the tee that is inside the wall to the metal drain.

other than that I am trying to figure an approach, I assume attach the faucet and water lines before installing the 2 pieces and then trying to connect everything after? Or is it possible to set the sink top up with temporary supports a bit higher than it will end up and connecting everything and then squeezing the pedestal under it?

the tee in the wall is 18" off the floor , the 2 water lines are 24" up and 4.5" apart, I did not do that part.

the pedestal itself is 27" high , 7" wide, and the bottom of the sink hole will be about 26" off the floor and 7" to the center from the wall, any tips appreciated, thanks
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Most pedestal sinks are supported mainly by the pedestal. If I know I will be installing one at rough-in time, I will arm over for the drain and have backing in the wall for the support screws. I mainly view those as something to prevent the bowl from pulling away from the wall and assume that most of the support is coming from the pedestal.
If there is no backing in the wall, I use wall anchors, and putting the flippy ends in the wall, I can rob the nuts and washers from closet bolt sets, though better washers are to pick up the large diameter fender washers while you're picking up the wall anchors.

The trap adapter at the wall needs to be very close, and the p-trap likely trimmed short for that. The pedestal can be slipped in at the last sometimes, and of course the faucet gets installed to the bowl first.

toggle-bolts-1.jpg


I reverse the bolt to put the screw end in the wall, and use a nut and washer to hold the sink to the wall.
 
Last edited:

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
So I may do my pedestal sink installs a bit differently. I set my sink on the pedestal against the wall where it will be installed and measure from the floor the height of the drain. Assuming no backing in the wall, I will use a Toggler anchor so that I can zip it to the wall and it doesn't move. I insert a piece of all thread so that its sticking out far enough to place a washer and nut on for securing later. I install the faucet and loosely install the rigid supplies (if using flex lines forget that, just get them tight enough to not leak). With the pedestal sink on the floor install the drain with the needed extension to get the trap to the right height. I then install the trap with the correct orientation so that when its all built, I slide the sink and pedestal with the trap right into the trap adapter. Snug the wall anchors with the nuts and tighten the water supplies and trap adapter where they're easy.

I have seen people use caulk to connect the pedestal to the sink.. Don't do that, it makes maintenance a nightmare. You can caulk the pedestal to the floor so that its less likely to wobble or get kicked out of place. Some even have a hole in the back to screw down to the floor.

Toggler.jpg
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
pedestal-lav-install-01.jpg


A new pedestal sink in a Seattle home, radiant heat on the wall below.

pedestal-lav-install-02.jpg


No backing in the wall, at least there is some wood panel on the walls though.
I cut my p-trap off flush with the wall. I don't want it blocking off the 90 or tee in the wall.

pedestal-lav-install-03.jpg


With no backing I like to install some toggle bolts to hold the sink to the wall.

pedestal-lav-install-05.jpg


I can pick up 1/4" toggle bolts, some fender washers and then rob the 1/4" nuts and washer from handy closet bolts I have on the van.

pedestal-lav-install-04.jpg


Fender washers and nuts to hold the bowl.

pedestal-lav-install-06.jpg


Normally you would have 15" from the wall to center. This is an old Seattle home and it's way too small for that. I guess our grandparents were just glad the plumbing was inside and not a walk outside with a kerosene lamp for lighting at night.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks