Tile Tip of the Day - tidbits of info to help hone your skills

Users who are viewing this thread

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
That redgard shower is um ..... A tearout? Voids around drain? Am i seeing clearly on my iphone? Wtf?

You should see the other photos posted by this lady Counter. I just received an email from someone in Decatur GA. It might be the poster of the photos. Seems a shame to rip out the entire shower because the floor was not done right.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
Installing-tile-edging-804.jpg


This Photo From a How To Specialist: What two things are wrong? These tile edging products are best installed with thin-set or Ardex 8+9. Screws are a bad idea.


The profile looks like 3/8" and the tile the same. I like to order 1/2" profiles with a 3/8" tile so there is room for thin-set.

The corner looks like crap. Those corners should line up perfect.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
attachment.php


Why did this Ditra Heat Installation Fail when shop vac'd?

This is a great question and I would have to say because of a couple of things. Often the back side of the fleece on a Schluter product (Noble, Laticrete, Wedi etc) can have a touch of a static charge. I find a good clean with a sponge ringed out with water hydrates the fleece and removes this static charge.

The installer of this Ditra Heat mentioned he used a 1/4" V Notch trowel - not the required 1/4" x 1/4" square notch trowel.

The installer might have overwatered the thin-set a little too much.

When you over water thin-set you weaken it. So using a premium thin-set is a good idea. You should also give these assembles two days to cure before stressing them. Not overnight.

I really think this is a poor design for a heating cable system. I would run away from this product and treat it like the plaque. I would learn from this failed Ditra Drain install the importance of proper trowel selection and the added care when vacuuming over Ditra Drain.

Sad that a shop Vac can pull off the Ditra Drain. I guess it UNCOUPLED. lol
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
Funny Vegas.

No sure any wire mesh is needed for this pre-slope stage in the shower build assembly. The pre-slope only need be 1/4" per foot and solid enough to hold membrane in position. It's later topped with a roughly 2" reinforced mortar bed.

The pre-slope could be as simple as one of Noble's prefabbed cardboard pre-slopes.


I prefer using a fast setting screed mortar and find Mapei's Fast Setting Repair Mortar Mapecem Pre-Mix to be my favourite. When installing the pre-slope I like my floor assembly to all ready be tile ready. This can be many things and built many ways. From double plywood sheathing to single ply and cement board.

If the substrate looks suspicious it's good to repair and if that is not possible then yes I would prepare the pre-slope thicker and add extra reinforcing mesh. This is what I use on most pre-slopes these past couple years.

093994145406.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

ShowerDude

Showers
Messages
710
Reaction score
66
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Have used the noble preslope few times. Dont like it. Soft and cardboard w /subpar foam density. Dont like it.
 

ShowerDude

Showers
Messages
710
Reaction score
66
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Good to know. Maybe an option for rushed shower builds?


Exactly John..

But under neath it all there is foam and cardboard..

(i have since stopped sub contracting to the GC that always pushed me into a corner with RUSH projects that need these options...)

On a side note with the whole
Noble proslope , foam overlay curb w2x4's and any one of their noble liners you can install and pour pan / set drain All in 1 day.....

But you shouldnt be rushed to skip the flood test phase...

The GC mentioned ....laughed me right off the jobsites when 2-3 days flood testing was brought up.......

I quit!!!!
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
Tile Tip of the Day

attachment.php


What is so wrong about this shower build so far?

Yesterday's Answer

attachment.php


What are the obvious three mistakes with this diagram?

1). Double 2"x6" studs installed wrong way around. Dimensial Lumber such a poor choice for shower curbs.

2). No blocking to support the drain.

3). No reinforcing over the curb face and top. Not enough mortar here to work well.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC

ShowerDude

Showers
Messages
710
Reaction score
66
Points
28
Location
Minnesota

I made a temporary dam with some Ardex SK Mesh and Ardex 8+9. To make the dam I used a 2"x4" weighted in place with three boxes of tile. A little tuck tape as abound breaker and then two coats of the Ardex 8+9.

A great thing about Ardex 8+9 ... is in the product literature. They dont tie your hands behind your back when they say you can use it with Ardex SK mesh "OR SIMILAR" So ive gone ahead and used up a bunch of My Laticrete hydrobarrier/hydroban fabric with it and some Alakalai mesh tape. Works well IMO.

IMG_0544.JPG
 

Vegas_sparky

Digital Billy
Messages
486
Reaction score
42
Points
28
Location
LV,NV/ Nowhere,UT
What happened to the tile tips? How am I supposed to get any better if I can't copy/steal the ideas and techniques of you pros?

How bout some tips on porcelain tile mitred corners, and edges? Pictures?
 

Vegas_sparky

Digital Billy
Messages
486
Reaction score
42
Points
28
Location
LV,NV/ Nowhere,UT
C'mon, John. I know you have skin thick enough to take a little lamb basting, whatever that is. LOL

I enjoy reading what you write(even if it has nothing to do with anything I'll ever do), or I wouldn't ask.
 

Vegas_sparky

Digital Billy
Messages
486
Reaction score
42
Points
28
Location
LV,NV/ Nowhere,UT
Thanks, Roberto. :) That's exactly the kind of picture I was hoping to see. It looks like you wrapped that corner, and kept the texture continuous. Absolutely perfect. That niche looks crazy clean, and tight.

Do you do anything to the sharp, mitred corner? I've read you and John talking about microbeveling repeatedly in the past, but couldn't pick up on exactly what it was, or even when that technique was applied.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
The micro bevel is done with a diamond sanding pad. These do a good job to making the cut miter corner look like a new factory edge.

Handpad7pc-1.jpg


The 50 pad and 200 pads my two favourite. 50 first. 200 to clean it up.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
What is the tile tip in this photo? The tip here is to be creative. I used a scrap drywall bead to help hold the top tile in position. The bottom tile is all ready set.[/QUOTE]​

Look close in this picture from an old tip of mine. See the mitred corners. See the gap between the tiles. I often make the bevel not 45 degrees but rather 50-60 degrees. This allows the grout a little more room and makes for a slight dovetail shape.

The second tip is that the tile spacing needs to be perfect. Look at how the grout line continues from right to left. The top tile in the niches face level with the top edge of the tile on it's right.

If you keep that going on it looks great in the end.

This photo is close to what I do. I think the back befell needs to be more than 45 degree's personally....

attachment.php
 
Last edited by a moderator:

ShowerDude

Showers
Messages
710
Reaction score
66
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
IMG_1074.JPG



Vegas....... This is an example of A third world " Tijuana" version of a faux mitered corner !!!..........backfilled with sanded grout this is an option to deal with unfinished edges.

This type of decision making usually happens when im sub-contracting to a general contractor that makes the calls based on budgets/time constraints.

update: i have learned lots from my friends to the south, i meant no disrespect to tijuana or the skilled work that comes from there. masters of concrete , stucco, and roofing for sure...
 
Last edited:

Vegas_sparky

Digital Billy
Messages
486
Reaction score
42
Points
28
Location
LV,NV/ Nowhere,UT
I don't know what the safety feature could be in the last bit, but thanks for the tips on the microbeveling, John. :) I've been wondering WTH that was for almost a year now. LOL
 

Vegas_sparky

Digital Billy
Messages
486
Reaction score
42
Points
28
Location
LV,NV/ Nowhere,UT
View attachment 26438


Vegas....... This is an example of A third world " Tijuana" version of a faux mitered corner !!!..........backfilled with sanded grout this is an option to deal with unfinished edges.

This type of decision making usually happens when im sub-contracting to a general contractor that makes the calls based on budgets/time constraints.


Dude, that is so wrong! No profile, no bevel, just grout. Get er done! LMAO

Funny thing is, I'll try and do something better, and it'll look like that anyway. Sí, the bevel, she stinks.
 

JohnfrWhipple

BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD
Messages
3,225
Reaction score
102
Points
48
Location
North Vancouver, BC
People can be so unrealistic with their expectations today. They goggle this. Goggle That. Read up codes and specs and then think every builder is going to follow all the specs.

Truth is most don't. Most building codes exclude Industry Guidelines.

Most tile men rush jobs.

Some hacks even set and tile&grout showers in two days.

Everyone researching needs to outline everything from day one. Before the job starts.

Expectations.
Tile Lay Out.
Types of setting materials.
Waterproofing measures.
Flood test time lines.

I know I charge extra of mitred corners. I charge less to use a Schluter profile. Less still to use nothing.

I pass on jobs that won't flood test do to time constraints.

And tile lay outs I know at framing stage because we are typically building custom niches and setting plumbing fixtures on full tile or grout joints.

When a client is surpassed by some work without all the info above outlined earlier it's their fault in my book. If a builder tells the tile guy to bang it out. You get what you get and don't get upset....
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks